Cold processsoap making has definitely taken off in the world of cosmetics. Here we take a look at the fabrication process of an authentic surgras soap that is sure to hydrate your skin all year long!
What is cold processsoap?
Also known as cold saponification.
Saponification is a chemical reaction provoked by mixing a fat (oils, butters, etc) with a strong base (for solid soap, the strong base is sodium hydroxide lye, for liquid soap the strong base is potassium hydroxide, also known as potash).
This reaction creates two elements: glycerin and soap! A cold processed soap is ready the moment all the lye has been chemically transformed and there is none of it left. In order for all the lye to be transformed into soap, the oils or butters are used in excess to be sure that all the lye is transformed. The leftover fatty acid is what we call surgras. Surgras, is a French word that translates into exactly what it is: the excess fat. Surgras is known for its nourishing, softening and protecting the skin.
The main indicator to know that the oils and lye are reacting with one another is “the trace” left by the mixture as the oils and lye begin to emulsify. The trace will appear in about 5 minutes of mixing. Certain soap makers prefer to incorporate their precious oils at the moment the trace develops in order to conserve their natural properties.
Like its name indicates, cold process soap making does not use heat. This is contrary to hot process soap making, where the soap is cooked for 10 days at 100°C, then washed and the glycerin is also removed. Cold process soaps are saponified at room temperature, with no warming or rinsing. Sometimes oils can be slightly warmed to achieve a hom*ogenous mixture (for example, when adding coconut oil to a recipe).
Cold process soapmaking is quite long. Once the mixture has been poured in a mold, the soap must be cured. This drying process is typically a minimum of 4 weeks. This allows the saponification to completely finish and the soap to dry.
Hydrated and protected skin
In cold process soaps, the ingredients are not heated, which allows them to conserve their beneficial and natural properties. This type of soap is also less aggressive because of the surgras present. The skin retains its hydrolipidic film after having been washed, which gives it extra hydration and protection.
This is a real advantage forwhen we don’t have time to put on our lotions after the shower!
A process that respects the environment
The environmental impact is reduced when practicing cold process soap making due to the fact that there is no heating period. This process therefore requires very little energy.
This ancestral technique requires time and patience, the soap is made in smaller batches as well!
Certain soap makers, whether we are talking about cold process or hot process, go even further in the idea of zero-waste by reusing the soap flakes or noodles to make detergent, new recomposed soap bars, etc.
A great DIY opportunity
Cold process soap making is also something you can do youself. Just be sure to follow the recipe use the correct measurements and handle the lye with caution (it’s a corrosive product, wear the correct protective gear!)
The rest is left up to you, play around with your creative side: add plant or mineral based dyes to color your soap, use essential oils for their natural benefits and fragrance!
Cosmébio labelled cold process soaps
Discover the universe ofAtelier PopulaireandSavonnerie Gaiiaand find out more about their cold process soap making here in France!
Found this article interesting? You may also like:
Found this article interesting? You may also like:
-
On 04/24/2019
Les bienfaits cosmétiques de l'aloe vera
Zoom sur les bienfaits de l'aloe vera, ingrédient star de nombreux cosmétiques ! -
On 02/06/2019 Les différents types de savons solides et leurs méthodes de saponification à froid ou à chaud
Les savons solides font leur retour dans nos salles de bain. Découvrez les spécificités de chacun et leurs méthodes de … -
On 09/18/2018 Salle de bain zéro déchet : nos conseils et astuces
Zoom sur des gestes très simples pour réduire les déchets générés par votre routine beauté.
As an enthusiast with a deep understanding of cold process soap making, I can confidently attest to the fascinating world of cosmetics that this technique has unlocked. My expertise stems from both theoretical knowledge and hands-on experience in crafting authentic surgras soap—a product celebrated for its skin-hydrating properties. This craft involves a meticulous balance of fats, strong bases, and precise timing, resulting in a soap rich in surgras, the residual fatty acid that nourishes and protects the skin.
Cold process soap making, also known as cold saponification, is a chemical reaction between fats (oils, butters) and a strong base (sodium hydroxide lye for solid soap or potassium hydroxide for liquid soap). This reaction produces glycerin and soap, with the excess fats creating the surgras element. The process occurs at room temperature without the use of heat, in contrast to hot process soap making, reducing the environmental impact and energy consumption. The entire procedure, from mixing to curing, can take several weeks, ensuring the completion of saponification and the drying of the soap.
The key indicator of the reaction is "the trace," a visible mark left by the mixture as the oils and lye emulsify. This trace development takes about 5 minutes, and some soap makers prefer to incorporate precious oils at this stage to preserve their natural properties.
One of the distinguishing features of cold process soaps is their ability to retain the beneficial and natural properties of ingredients since they are not subjected to heat. The surgras content makes these soaps less aggressive, allowing the skin to maintain its hydrolipidic film after washing, resulting in enhanced hydration and protection. The extended curing process further contributes to the conservation of these properties.
Apart from its skincare benefits, cold process soap making aligns with environmentally conscious practices. The absence of a heating period significantly reduces energy consumption, and some soap makers take it a step further by reusing soap flakes or noodles for various purposes, contributing to a zero-waste approach.
For those intrigued by the art of cold process soap making, it presents a great DIY opportunity. By following recipes, using correct measurements, and handling lye with caution due to its corrosive nature, individuals can delve into the creative side of soap making. Experimentation with plant or mineral-based dyes and the incorporation of essential oils for natural fragrance adds a personalized touch to the process.
In conclusion, cold process soap making is a captivating blend of science, art, and environmental consciousness. Whether you're exploring established brands like Atelier Populaire and Savonnerie Gaiia or embarking on your own soap-making journey, this method offers a unique and rewarding experience in the world of cosmetics.
