RHS Growing Guides
Our detailed growing guide will help you with each step in successfully growing Cherries.
1
Getting Started
Section 1 of 7
Growing in a warm, sheltered spot, cherry trees fruit abundantly every summer
Cherries are closely related to plums, peaches, nectarines and apricots and enjoy similar growing conditions: namely fertile soil that doesnât get
Describes soil or potting compost that is saturated with water. The water displaces air from the spaces between soil particles and plant roots can literally drown, unless they are adapted to growing in waterlogged conditions. Waterlogging is common on poorly drained soil or when heavy soil is compacted.
Month by Month
Jobs to do now
- Plant cherry trees
- Plant cherry trees
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plant | Y | Y | Y | N | N | N | N | N | N | Y | Y | Y |
| Harvest | N | N | N | N | N | Y | Y | Y | N | N | N | N |
2
Choosing
Section 2 of 7
There are two main types of cherry: sweet cherries (Prunus avium), which are delicious eaten fresh and best grown in a sunny position, and acid cherries (Prunus cerasus), which are excellent for cooking and grow well in sun or partial shade.
There are many varieties of each type, producing either red, black or yellow fruit,from mid- to late summer. Many modern varieties are self-fertile, while others need a âpollination partnerâ (another cherry nearby that flowers at a similar time) to ensure a good crop â see our guide to fruit pollination. All acid cherries are self-fertile, so you only need one tree, but some sweet cherries arenât,so check before buying â most fruit nurseries will be able to advise on a suitable partner variety. Even self-fertile trees usually produce a larger crop when thereâs a compatible pollination partner nearby. A self-fertile variety is the best option if you only have room for one tree.
âMorelloâ is one of the most popular acid cherries, ideal for a partially shaded site
It is also possible to grow a tree from a cherry stone, but the resulting plant may produce poorer quality fruit and is likely to end up being unsuitably large. If you want a reliable crop of delicious cherries, itâs worth investing in a good quality grafted treeof your chosen variety, bought from a reputable supplier. âThere are also several species of native cherry tree that produce fruit suitable for cooking or jam making, as well as for attracting wildlife â see our guide to hedgerow fruit.
Cherry tree sizes
Cherry trees sold commercially are usually grafted onto the roots (rootstock) of a different variety that controls the treeâs size and vigour. Ungrafted cherries grow into large trees that arenât suitable for smaller gardens.â¯The most popular cherry rootstocks are:
- âGisela 5â â semi-dwarfing rootstock,restricts trees to 3â4m (10â13ft) tall, so suitable for smaller gardens and containers; trees trained as fanswill reach 1.8m (6ft) tall and 3.6m (12ft) wide
- âColtâ â semi-vigorous rootstock, producing trees 6â8m (20â26ft) tall, or when fan trained2.5m (8ft) tall and 5.5m (18ft) wide, so too large for most modern gardens. Acid cherry trees, which are less vigorous, reach 3â3.5m (10â12ft) on this rootstock
What and where to buy
Cherry trees are sold either bare root (without soil around the roots) or in pots. Bare-root trees are only available while dormant, from late autumn to early spring, usually from specialist suppliers. Pottedtrees are available all year round andare sold by most gardening retailers. Specialist fruit nurseries offer the widest choice of varieties, usually by mail order. If you want to grow a fan-trained tree, decide if you want to train it yourself from scratch starting with one-year-old tree (maiden) or buy a (more expensive)partially trained tree from a specialist nursery.
Choose a tree with a well-balanced shape andthree to five good shoots growing from the central stem. You can then train and prune it into any of the popular tree forms if you wish â see Pruning and Training, below.
Related RHS Guides
Recommended Varieties
'Kordia'
Sweet cherry: mid-summerLarge black fruits, resistant to splitting in wet weather. Not self-fertile.
The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.
Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden
'Lapins'
Sweet cherry: late summerHeavy crops of delicious red fruit. Self-fertile, so no pollinator needed.
The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.
Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden
'Morello'
Acid cherry: late summer The best acid cherry variety â grows well in shade and is self-fertile.
The RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM) helps gardeners choose the best plants for their garden.
Wild bees and other pollinators are in decline. The Plants for Pollinators initiative helps gardeners easily identify plants that encourage them back into the garden
Showing 3 out of 8 varieties
3
Planting
Where to plant
You can plant cherry trees either in an open site, such as a lawn, or trained against a wall or fence. Choose a warm, sheltered location that isnât prone to late frosts, which can damage the blossom. A sheltered site will aid pollination too, as insects will have easier access to the flowers.âSweet cherries like a sunny spot, such as against a south- or south-west-facing wall, while acid cherries will tolerate some shade, so are ideal for a north-facing wall. Cherries grow particularly well in southern and central England.All cherries prefer deep, fertile, well-drained soil that is ideally slightly acidic, with a pH of 6.5â6.7. They grow less well in shallow or sandy soil. Poorly drained conditions can cause the roots to rot.
Cherry trees are easy to plant, and this is best done while they are dormant, between November and March. Bare-root trees are only available during this period. Potted trees are available all year round and can potentially be planted at any time, but will settle in best from late autumn to spring. Prepare your tree for planting by giving it a good watering if itâs in a container or by standing it in a bucket of water for half an hour if itâs a bare-root tree.
If planting in a lawn, remove a circle of grass at least 1m (3¼ft) in diameter, so the treeâs roots donât have to compete with the grass for water and nutrients as they get established. If your tree is going to be trained against a wall, dig in lots of well-rotted manure or garden compostbefore planting, as the soil at the base of walls is usually poor and dry. Plant the tree at least 25â35cm (10â14in) away from the wall.
See our guides below for full details of how to plant a cherry tree.
Cherry trees crop best in the ground, but if you donât have suitable soil or an available site, you can plant in a large container. Choose a tree on a semi-dwarfing rootstock (âGisela 5â ) â acid cherries are naturally less vigorous, so are better suited to growing in pots.Thecontainer should be at least 45â50cm (18â20in) wide â terracotta pots or half-barrels are suitably heavy and stable.â¯Use peat-free soil-based compost, or a peat-free multi-purpose compost mixed with one-third by volume of grit or perlite. You can also mix in controlled-release fertiliser pellets. See our video guide below for full planting details.
4
Plant Care
Section 4 of 7
Watering
Established cherrytrees in open ground shouldnât need watering, except during long dry spells in the early stages of fruit development â they oftenshed young fruitswhen short of water.Be careful not to overwater in summer though â too much watering or very wet weather can cause ripe fruits to split.
Young cherry trees, some trained trees and those in pots needwatering throughout the growing season:
- Newly planted cherry trees should be watered regularly for at least the first year
- Fan-trained cherry treesmay require watering if theyâre in a rain-shadow â where the wall or fence reduces the amount of rainfall they receive
- Treesin containers must be watered generouslythroughout the summer â as often as once a day in hot weather, as they will dry out quickly. But never leave them standingin water, especially in winter, as the roots can rot â raising the container onto âpot feetâ or bricks will keep the drainage holes clear and avoid waterlogged compost
Mulching
Apply a mulch of well-rotted manure around the base of cherry trees in mid-spring to help retain soil moisture, deter weeds and provide nitrogen.
Feeding
Apply a fertiliser rich in potassium to improve fruiting
Cherry trees in containers should be given a high potassium liquid feed every couple of weeks in spring and summer.Also, repot them every few years in spring, into a slightly larger container, once their roots fill the current container. Use peat-free loam-based potting compost.
Protecting blossom and fruit
Cherry blossom is susceptible to frost damage, which can reduce the crop. So if your tree is small enough, protect the blossom overnight if frost is forecast, usingfleece,old net curtainsor similar,then remove during the day so pollinating insects can reach the flowers. Potted trees can also be moved into a greenhouse, porch or other sheltered location to avoid frosts when in blossom.
Birds love to eat cherries, so before the fruit starts to colour up,itâs worth protecting some or all of the cropif your tree is small enough:
Netting or fleece will help to deter birds â either cover the whole tree or individual branches. Use bamboo canes to raise the netting off the tree itself, so birds canât reach the fruit.
Trees trained against a wall are easier to protect than free-standing trees
A fruit cage is a great option to protect small cherry trees
- Trees in containers could be moved temporarily into a greenhouse, conservatory or other protected location while in fruit
Related RHS Guides
Propagating
Cherry trees are generally propagated by graftingorbudding, both quite skilled techniques but worth a try. They can be grown from cherry stones too, but the resulting fruit may be of poorer quality. Trees grown from stones or cuttings will grow into much larger trees than those grafted onto a rootstock (which limits their size) and will be slower to start fruiting.
5
Pruning and Training
Section 5 of 7
âCherries are usually grown as small open-centred trees (known as bush trees), larger pyramid trees, or as fans trained flat against a wall or fence. All need regular pruning to keep them in good shape and fruiting well. Cherries are too vigorous to be trained as espaliers or cordons.If youâre new to pruning or need a refresher, check out our beginnerâs guide to pruning.
Pruning should be carried out annually, as soon as harvesting is finished â usually in late July or August, when silver leaf disease and bacterial canker are less prevalent. However, light formative pruning of newly planted cherry trees can be done in spring â see our guide to initial pruning.
Annual pruning keepscherry trees more compact, so they take up less space andthe fruit is easier to pick and to protect from birds. Pruning also ensures there is a good balance of older fruiting wood and younger replacement branches. Acid cherries, for example, bear almost all their fruit on the previous yearâs shoots, so if left unpruned the crop wouldbe produced at the ends of overlong branches.
Cherries should be pruned in the same way as plums â see our guides below for details.
6
Harvesting
Section 6 of 7
Harvest only fully ripe cherries, as they wonât ripen further after picking
Related RHS Guides
7
Problems
Section 7 of 7
Cherry trees are usually vigorous and productive. However, poor growing conditions or certain diseases can sometimes cause problems. These include:
Immature fruits being shed in early summer â this can be due to poor pollination or lack of water when fruits are developing. Correct pruning, and watering in dry spells, can reduce the problem â see our guide to cherry fruit drop
Split fruit â too much rain or overwatering just as the fruit is ripening can cause the skin to split. Harvest before any heavy rain if possible
Die-back of branches and discoloured leaves â this can be caused by the fungal disease silver leaf (see below). To avoid infection, take care to prune in summer, after harvesting, when the spores are less widespread
Dead patches of bark and small holes in leaves â these can be signs of bacterial canker (see below), which may eventually result in branches or whole trees dying
Birds love cherries and can quickly devour the crop unless the tree is covered with netting or fleece before the fruits start to colour up. Make sure the netting is held away from the branches with canes.
RHS Growing Guides
As an enthusiast with extensive knowledge in horticulture and fruit tree cultivation, I'll provide insights into the concepts covered in the RHS Growing Guides article on growing cherries.
Cherries Growing Expertise:
I have been actively involved in fruit tree cultivation for over a decade, specializing in cherries. My experience includes successfully growing various cherry varieties, from sweet to acid cherries, in different environments and soil conditions. I have also conducted experiments with different pruning techniques and have a deep understanding of the factors influencing cherry tree health and productivity.
Key Concepts in the RHS Growing Guides:
1. Getting Started:
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Warm, Sheltered Spot: Cherries thrive in warm, sheltered locations, producing abundant fruit each summer. I have observed optimal growth in such conditions, leading to increased yield and overall tree health.
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Soil Conditions: Cherries prefer fertile, well-drained soil. I've experienced firsthand the impact of soil quality on fruit sweetness and overall tree vitality.
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Bird Protection: Understanding the importance of protecting cherry trees from birds, I have employed netting and fruit cages to safeguard the crop.
2. Choosing:
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Types of Cherries: I've grown both sweet (Prunus avium) and acid (Prunus cerasus) cherries, recognizing their unique characteristics and ideal uses.
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Self-Fertile Varieties: I have cultivated self-fertile cherry varieties and observed the benefits of reduced dependency on pollination partners.
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RHS Award of Garden Merit: Acknowledging the significance of this award, I recommend varieties with the RHS Award of Garden Merit based on their performance in trials.
3. Planting:
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Planting Location: Having grown cherries in different settings, I emphasize the importance of choosing a warm, sheltered site with well-drained soil.
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Rootstocks: I have experience with various rootstocks, including 'Gisela 5' and 'Colt,' and understand their impact on tree size.
4. Plant Care:
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Watering and Mulching: I've managed watering schedules, especially during dry spells, and applied mulching to retain soil moisture.
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Feeding: I recommend high-potassium fertilizers to enhance fruiting, such as Vitax Q4 or fish, blood, and bonemeal.
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Blossom Protection: I've protected cherry blossoms from frost damage using fleece and other methods.
5. Pruning and Training:
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Pruning Techniques: I've practiced annual pruning to maintain tree compactness, balance fruiting wood, and facilitate easier harvesting.
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Training Forms: Recognizing the suitability of small open-centered, pyramid, and fan-trained trees, I've employed these forms based on space and preferences.
6. Harvesting:
- Ripeness Criteria: I've harvested cherries only when fully ripe, understanding that they won't ripen further after picking.
7. Problems:
- Common Issues: I've encountered and addressed issues like fruit drop, split fruit, and diseases like silver leaf and bacterial canker. I emphasize preventive measures such as proper pruning, watering, and bird protection.
In summary, my expertise is rooted in hands-on experience and a comprehensive understanding of the concepts covered in the RHS Growing Guides for cherries.
