7 Mistakes You Might Be Making With Your Perennials (And How to Fix Them) (2024)

Perennials are the come-back stars of the garden, returning each spring after going dormant in winter. That means you can plant them once and then enjoy them for years. Healthy, happy perennials such as long-blooming coneflowers and shade-loving hostas will grow vigorously and multiply, creating new plants for you to expand your own garden or to share with friends. But sometimes, your perennials might not produce as many flowers or they just won't grow as well as they should. Chances are you've overlooked something they need to thrive. Here are the most common perennial garden mistakes you might be making, and how to fix them so you can get back to enjoying a season-long color show.

7 Mistakes You Might Be Making With Your Perennials (And How to Fix Them) (1)

Mistake 1: Putting Perennials in the Wrong Spot

The old garden adage "right plant, right place" means matching a plant's light requirements and soil preferences to where you want to put it. Some perennials, such as coneflower and yarrow, revel in bright sun from morning until night while others, such as astilbe and old-fashioned bleeding heart, do best in afternoon shade. When it comes to soil, some perennials need fast-draining sandy soil and others thrive in soil that stays moist but not wet. Knowing the preferred growing conditions a perennial needs is as simple as checking the plant label when you're in the garden center or consulting a plant encyclopedia. Pair the light and soil characteristics of your garden with plants that thrive in those conditions for a winning combo.

Mistake 2: Ignoring Your Zone

Every perennial has a hardiness zone range, based on the lowest temperatures various regions experience on average. Make sure to choose plants that can thrive in your particular zone, based on the USDA Hardiness Zone Map. For example, if you live in Zone 5, plants that are hardy in Zones 5 and below will likely survive your area's winters. Plants that are rated Zone 6 probably won't without some extra protection from the cold, such as a thick layer of mulch in winter.

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Mistake 3: Neglecting Maintenance

The best things in life often require a little bit of work and that's the case for perennials. While these plants tend to be fairly low-maintenance in general, they will look even better when you add a couple of key tasks to your garden chores list. In particular, regular deadheading, or removing spent flowers, encourages plants to channel available energy into developing a healthy root system and, in some cases, another flush of flowers later in the season. Division also helps reinvigorate many perennials. Aim to divide your perennial plants every three years or so.

Mistake 4: Not Planting for Color Through the Seasons

Most perennials bloom for a period of about three weeks. When you plant several different types of perennials together, your garden could have something in bloom at least three seasons out of the year. Make sure to think about color early in the season, with early-blooming species like hellebore and trillium. Then mix in plants that will extend the flower show through summer into fall, when late-season perennials such as aster, black-eyed Susan, and Russian sage take over. Perennials prized for their foliage, such as hosta and sedum, add both color and texture while plants with more showy flowers are coming into bloom.

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Mistake 5: Mulching Too Much or Too Little

You're adding mulch, right? A 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, will help you keep down weeds and hold moisture in the soil longer. But when you apply it, keep any mulch 2-3 inches away from the crown, or growing point, of each plant. Mulch too close or over the crown can help diseases take hold or slowly suffocate the plant. Mulch breaks down over time so you likely will need to spread a fresh layer annually. A really thick layer of mulch (6-8 inches) can be used to insulate fall-planted perennials from harsh winter conditions. If you apply a mulch blanket to newly planted perennials in late fall, make sure to remove it in early spring so the soil can warm up better as air temperatures rise.

Mistake 6: Planting Too Close

Crowded perennials create conditions that encourage disease. Although it's hard to imagine, a young perennial in a 4-inch pot can easily expand to cover several feet over a period of three years. When adding new plants, pay attention to the width and height you can expect them to reach. Choose planting places based on the plant's full size, both in relation to structures and pathways as well as other plants around them. And then wait patiently. Perennials grow slowly in the first year. In the second year, you'll notice a rapid increase in growth, and by the third year, they usually reach their full size.

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Mistake 7: Not Staking Tall Stems

Some perennials need a little help to stand tall. Delphiniums, peonies, and asters are just a few plants with long or thin flower stems that tend to flop onto the ground when they begin to bloom. To get the most out of their floral show, you'll need to do some staking earlier in their season of bloom. You can use single stakes or a grow-through grid ($35, Target), depending on what works best for the plant you need to support. Or, if staking is a chore you would rather avoid, look for more compact varieties of your favorite perennials that won't require support.

25 Easy-to-Grow Perennials for Beginners

If you've made some of these perennial garden mistakes in the past, you can easily correct course because these types of plants tend to be pretty forgiving. Chalk up your errors to experience and make note of these gardening tactics so you can start growing perennials like a pro.

7 Mistakes You Might Be Making With Your Perennials (And How to Fix Them) (2024)

FAQs

7 Mistakes You Might Be Making With Your Perennials (And How to Fix Them)? ›

Perennials left in place slowly break down over the winter. Of course, some stand longer than others, lasting into or even through the winter months with dead foliage or stems in place.

What happens if you don't cut back perennials? ›

Perennials left in place slowly break down over the winter. Of course, some stand longer than others, lasting into or even through the winter months with dead foliage or stems in place.

What perennials not to fertilize? ›

Perennials that require no fertilizer: Included are ornamental grasses, false indigo, ground covers, butterfly weed, bee balm, coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, sea holly, dianthus, asters and veronica. summer: Use a quick release food in summer, instead of a slow release food.

What causes perennials to not come back? ›

Many factors influence the reliable return or the final farewell of perennials, depending on each plant's ability to withstand overly harsh conditions such as draught (Yes, draught happens in winter just as it does in summer.), insect infestation, late heavy frost, consistently below-normal temperatures for a lengthy ...

Will a dead perennial come back? ›

Beneath that dead-looking clump of stems, leaves and blooms are hardy roots that will produce a new plant come spring.

What kind of fertilizer for perennials? ›

You can use a complete granular fertilizer (contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) or one of the soluble plant fertilizers that are mixed with water. Perennials: Rake away mulch in spring and apply 1-inch of compost around plants. Lightly fertilize plants if needed with a complete granular fertilizer.

Is Miracle-Gro good for perennials? ›

Water and Feed Your Perennials

Young perennial plants may be hardy, but they still need plenty of water and nutrients to get established in the soil. You can easily water and feed at the same time with Miracle-Gro® Liquafeed®.

What is the best food for perennials? ›

Feeding. Most perennials in borders need no additional feeding, but if the soil is particularly poor, you could add a well-balanced fertiliser, such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone, in spring. Apply a mulch of garden compost or well-rotted manure to the soil surface annually in spring, to enrich the soil.

Why are all my perennials dying? ›

Overwatering is one of the more common causes of plant problems. Damage caused by overwatering is frequently misdiagnosed as pest problems. Roots growing in waterlogged soil may die because they can't function properly from a lack of oxygen in the soil.

What is the lifespan of a perennial plant? ›

Perennial plants are those with a lifespan that lasts at least three years, though they can live significantly longer as well. Perennial foliage may die back during the winter months but will regrow from dormant roots the next season.

How to help perennials grow back? ›

We recommend:
  1. Fertilizing once a season.
  2. During dry seasons, watering deeply and trying to avoid getting water on the leaves.
  3. Using mulch to keep weeds at bay and retain moisture.
  4. Pinching back growth to produce a denser plant with more blooms.
  5. Deadheading spent flower to stimulate reblooming.
Jul 25, 2019

What kills perennials? ›

Roundup (active ingredient: glyphosate) is an ideal treatment for perennial weed control because it has activity on a wide variety of perennial weeds, it is not absorbed from the soil by plant roots, it is inexpensive, and it is widely available.

What is the perennial plant of the year in 2024? ›

The Perennial Plant Association, a professional association composed of growers, garden retailers, landscape designers, and horticultural educators, has selected 'Jeana' Phlox as the 2024 Perennial Plant of the Year.

What are the perennial problems? ›

Three Perennial Problems. The perennial problems are external goods, internal conflicts, and evaluative contingencies. They have the same form: we form an intention, act on it in order to achieve an aim; we expect that the aim will be realized, and yet our expectation is often not met.

How far down do you cut perennials? ›

When you're ready to trim, remember the rule of thumb for how far to cut back perennials. At a slight angle, trim the plant nearly all the way down to the ground, leaving about a 1-to 2-inch stub above ground. Spray your pruners with alcohol or Lysol in between cuts to sterilize them.

Should I cut back perennials in summer? ›

With thought out pruning, perennials can be timed to bloom in continuous waves. Spring blooming perennials should not be pruned until after flowering. Summer bloomers should be pinched in early spring. Perennials that bloom in the fall should be cut back by July 4.

What happens if you don't cut back hostas in the fall? ›

The answer really depends on whether or not you can stand to look at a border like this through Winter… Most Hostas leaves turn yellow, die back and go dormant over the Winter. After the first frost of the season, the leaves tend to go a bit mushy too.

What happens if you don't prune your plants? ›

Neglecting to prune your plants can lead to weak or dead limbs, which can have detrimental effects on their health. These branches are more prone to breakage, especially during severe weather conditions like strong winds or storms. As a result, it can cause further damage to your plants.

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