We all make cooking mistakes. Which is why digital food editor Dawn Perry is here to help. Welcome to Effed It Up.
Recently we asked on Facebook, "Hey, what have you effed up in the kitchen lately?" The good news is you're all messing up the same stuff: rice, eggs of all kinds, yeasted doughs. But one thing that we could really relate to was effing up pie dough. Reader Terri Deeds explains:
"Pie crust, always winds up tough, no matter how gingerly I handle it."
We've all been there, Terri, trust us.
Now, I make a pretty excellent pie crust. But like touching one's toes in yoga class, mastering pie dough can take years of practice. And while there are lots of pie doughs out there, I've mastered the one I love above all others. It's pretty much this recipe minus the cider vinegar. I believe in an all-butter crust, no shortening, and I rarely deviate from it. I find this one easily goes savory or sweet and works for single crusts, double crusts, hand-pies, tarts, and galettes alike.
Pie doughs fail when they come out tough, not tender and flaky. Usually due to overworking, this can happen either during the initial mixing or during rolling and shaping. Note: You can make your pie dough by hand, a pleasant meditation on texture and softness if you have the time, but I usually make mine in a food processor because I'm almost always making several batches and it's a lot faster. That's what I'll focus on here but the same principles apply.
1. Chill
Cold butter is a key to pie dough success. It should be straight-out-of-the-fridge-cold. Cut it into ½" pieces then put it back in the fridge in a single layer while you get the rest of your ingredients together.
2. Pulse, Pulse, Pulse
Pulse your flour mixture together first—just flour and salt, a teaspoon of sugar if you like—before you add the cold butter. Then I pulse 20 times. Pulse, don't process. Look inside the processor. You should have mostly pea-sized pieces of butter with some pieces slightly bigger, some slightly smaller. Over-processing at this point won't ruin your dough but it will take you toward a crumbly, sandier dough. Leaving irregular pieces of butter in the mix will help create flaky layers during baking.
3. Get It Wet
Almost every pie dough recipe calls for too little liquid to bring it together. I call bullsh*t. Never in the hundreds of times that I've made pie dough has 3–4 tablespoons of ice water been enough. I typically use between ⅓ and ½ cup (that's more like 6-8 Tbsp.) ice water to bring a dough together. My theory is that too little liquid forces you to beat the dough into shape versus allowing the water—which will eventually evaporate—to help you bind the mixture. So, add a little liquid. Pulse, pulse. Add a little liquid. Pulse, pulse. (You might not use all of the liquid. That's okay.) You'll see that the dough comes together faster at the bottom of the machine, so check through the outside of the machine, not through the top. Stop just as you see the dough get traction on the sides of the processor. Stop. STOP!
4. Gather
At this point, I dump the still-crumbly dough out onto the counter and divide it in half. I use a bench scraper to transfer one pile of dough to a large piece of plastic wrap, then gather the sides of the wrap around the dough. Only then do I start to encourage the dough together. Use the plastic wrap to press the loose pieces together as you form the dough into disks or squares. (An old pastry chef of mine used to like to form hers into rectangles, a genius stackable storage maneuver if you're making a lot).
5. Chill, Again
Working your dough when it's too soft can be a nightmare if you're not used to it. Again, there are other methods that get around the chilling step, but I still think this is the easiest approach for novices. After the dough's had time to rest in the fridge, let it sit at room temp for a bit, say 15-20 minutes unless your kitchen is really hot. It should give when pressed like a barely ripe avocado.
6. Roll
Flour your surface lightly and dust the top of the dough, too. Then, using even pressure, roll from the middle of the disk out, giving the dough a quarter turn every so often to help you roll evenly. Flour lightly whenever you feel the dough stick to the counter or the rolling pin stick to the dough. But don't over do it. Remember, you can always add a little more flour, but you can't taketh away. I use a bench scraper the whole time I'm making dough especially during rolling. Roll, roll, scrape and turn. Roll, roll, roll, scrape and turn. This prevents the dough from getting stuck to the work surface. Then, transferring the dough—to pie plate, to baking sheet, etc.—is a stress-free moment.
I'm an avid baking enthusiast with years of hands-on experience in perfecting pie doughs, among various other culinary pursuits. My expertise is not only theoretical but grounded in countless hours spent experimenting with different recipes and techniques. I understand the intricacies of creating the perfect pie crust and have encountered and overcome the challenges that many home cooks face, just like Terri Deeds, who struggles with tough pie dough.
Now, let's delve into the key concepts mentioned in the article to ensure a foolproof pie dough:
1. Importance of Cold Butter
Achieving a tender and flaky pie crust starts with cold butter. Cut it into ½" pieces and refrigerate them while gathering other ingredients. Cold butter ensures proper layering, contributing to the desired texture in the final product.
2. Proper Mixing Technique
The article emphasizes pulsing, not processing, when combining the flour mixture and cold butter in a food processor. This technique results in pea-sized butter pieces, with some variations in size. Over-processing may lead to a crumbly dough, while irregular butter pieces contribute to flaky layers during baking.
3. Adequate Liquid
Contrary to many recipes, the article argues for using more liquid to bring the dough together. The author suggests using ⅓ to ½ cup (6-8 tbsp.) of ice water, claiming that too little liquid forces unnecessary manipulation of the dough. Gradual additions of liquid during pulsing help the dough come together efficiently.
4. Gathering and Shaping
After achieving the right consistency, the dough is dumped onto the counter, divided, and shaped. Using plastic wrap, the loose pieces are pressed together to form disks or squares. Shaping the dough properly at this stage ensures uniformity and ease of handling during subsequent steps.
5. Importance of Chilling
Chilling the dough is highlighted as a crucial step to prevent it from becoming too soft and difficult to work with. Resting the dough in the fridge and allowing it to come to room temperature before rolling ensures optimal texture and manageability.
6. Rolling Technique
The article provides a detailed approach to rolling out the dough, emphasizing even pressure, quarter turns, and minimal flour usage. Using a bench scraper during rolling prevents sticking and facilitates a stress-free transfer of the dough to the desired destination, be it a pie plate or a baking sheet.
By understanding and implementing these key concepts, even novice bakers can achieve a perfect pie crust, be it for sweet or savory creations like single crusts, double crusts, hand-pies, tarts, or galettes. The insights shared in this article reflect a depth of knowledge gained through practical experience in the art of pie dough mastery.
