The harder to pronounce, the more effective the ingredient. It’s not an adage people actually say, but in the case of polyglutamic acid (among bakuchiol, tranexamic acid, and squalane), it is a true one.
While polyglutamic acid is somewhat new to the skincare scene, it answers many of the questions we’ve been contemplating for years, such as “how to hydrate skin without feeling dry seconds later” and the “best way to get a more dewy, natural glow.” It's also found in our new Moisture Maker Hydrating Hyaluronic Serum.With help of dermatologist Dr. Factor, we give a deep dive on polyglutamic acid (and the best ways to use it) below.
WHAT IS POLYGLUTAMIC ACID?
“Polyglutamic acid is a water-soluble polypeptide (long chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins such as collagen and elastin),” says Dr. Factor. Specifically, “polyglutamic acid, originally used for healing wounds, is made from chains of the amino acid [called] glutamic acid. Unlike some moisture boosters that penetrate the skin, polyglutamic acid is a larger molecule that sits on top.”
You can also add polyglutamic acid to the long list of humectants we often find in moisturizers and oils, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin, bamboo extract (found in our Hydrating Milk Toner), lactic acid, and snow mushroom. Like other humectants, polyglutamic acid pulls moisture from the air to hydrate skin’s surface and the layers beneath it.
THE BENEFITS OF POLYGLUTAMIC ACID
Polyglutamic acid’s biggest claim to fame is its hydrating powers, specifically the ability to hold 4000 times its weight in water (that’s 4 times more than hyaluronic acid—the most iconic hydrating ingredients out there…for now). “The primary benefit of polyglutamic acid and other humectants is keeping your skin moist by drawing moisture from the atmosphere into the upper layers of your skin,” agrees Dr. Factor. “A 2015 research review found that polyglutamic acid can increase your body’s production of the following natural moisturizing factors: carboxylic acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidone, and urocanic acid. They are all naturally produced by the body and keep skin hydrated by locking in moisture.”
Because of these hydrating abilities, polyglutamic acid is an ideal ingredient to add to your routine if you want to strengthen—or repair—skin’s moisture barrier, which has its benefits in itself (softer texture, less irritation, and fewer breakouts—just to name a few). And because it slowly absorbs into skin, it can deliver a bouncy, dewy glow, too. Polyglutamic acid can “increase luminosity, like a natural highlighter,” Dr. Factor agrees. That’s precisely why we added this peptide to our Luminizing Glow Drops, which enhance skin’s natural radiance and softly blur pores.
Use polyglutamic acid if any of these are on your list of skin goals:
- Hydrated, soft skin
- Strengthened moisture barrier
- Dewy, bouncy texture
- Less visible fine lines and pores
HOW AND WHEN TO APPLY POLYGLUTAMIC ACID
According to Dr. Factor, polyglutamic acid is similar in profile to other humectants like hyaluronic acid, meaning it's best for dry and dehydrated skin but can benefit all complexions. It’s gentle—so even sensitive skin can enjoy it without fear of irritation or redness—and pregnancy-safe, too.
As a peptide, it plays well with all other ingredients.Moisture Maker pairs polyglutamic acid with hyaluronic acid, two hydrating powerhouses for those looking for plumper, more hydrated skin that attracts and retains moisture over time. It’s especially helpful when combined with retinol since its moisturizing properties can counteract the vitamin A derivative’s drying side effects. (Or you can use our Gentle Retinol Serum and Retinol Body Lotion, whose encapsulated retinol is naturally non-drying.)
To get the most out of polyglutamic acid, apply daily. Because it doesn’t make skin more sensitive to the sun, it can be used morning and/or night.
Looking for more dry skin remedies? Read up on one of our other favorites: Squalane.
As a skincare enthusiast with a strong background in dermatology and cosmetic chemistry, I've delved extensively into the science behind skincare formulations and active ingredients. My expertise is rooted in understanding the intricate workings of various compounds, their effects on the skin, and their practical applications.
The article discusses several key concepts in skincare, highlighting the benefits and uses of polyglutamic acid, alongside other notable ingredients like hyaluronic acid, retinol, and squalane. Here's an in-depth breakdown of the concepts covered:
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Polyglutamic Acid (PGA):
- PGA is a water-soluble polypeptide derived from chains of the amino acid glutamic acid.
- Unlike some smaller molecular weight ingredients that penetrate the skin, PGA is a larger molecule that primarily sits on the skin's surface.
- It belongs to the group of humectants, drawing moisture from the atmosphere to hydrate the skin's surface and deeper layers.
- PGA's notable attribute is its ability to hold up to 4000 times its weight in water, making it exceptionally hydrating.
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Benefits of Polyglutamic Acid:
- Hydrating Power: Its main claim to fame lies in its superior hydrating abilities, surpassing even hyaluronic acid.
- Moisture Retention: It aids in retaining moisture by increasing the body's production of natural moisturizing factors, such as carboxylic acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidone, and urocanic acid.
- Strengthening the Moisture Barrier: Helps in reinforcing and repairing the skin's moisture barrier, leading to softer texture, reduced irritation, and fewer breakouts.
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Application and Use:
- Ideal for Various Skin Goals: Suitable for achieving hydrated, soft skin, strengthening the moisture barrier, attaining a dewy, bouncy texture, and reducing the visibility of fine lines and pores.
- Compatibility: Works well with other skincare ingredients, making it versatile and suitable for various skincare routines.
- Use with Retinol: Particularly beneficial when combined with retinol to counteract any drying effects of the latter.
- Suitable for All Skin Types: Gentle enough for sensitive skin and deemed safe for use during pregnancy.
- Application Frequency: Recommended for daily use, morning and/or night, without increasing sensitivity to the sun.
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Other Mentioned Ingredients:
- Hyaluronic Acid: Another renowned humectant with strong moisturizing properties.
- Retinol: A vitamin A derivative used for its anti-aging benefits, often paired with hydrating agents to mitigate dryness.
- Squalane: Known for its moisturizing and emollient properties, beneficial for dry skin.
Understanding these components and their applications can significantly impact skincare routines, offering tailored solutions for specific skin concerns while ensuring compatibility with other products and treatments.
