Glycerin: Friend or Foe? - Academy of Hair Design (2024)

What is glycerin anyway? Also known as glycerol or glycerine, this ingredient is a colorless liquid that can be found in all natural fats (both plant and animal). It is found in our skin and can be manufactured synthetically. Acting as a natural humectant, glycerin attracts moisture to whatever surface it’s applied to. This super versatile ingredient has quite the history behind it. It’s used in antifreeze, in the film industry for special effects, and to heal wounds because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties. It has been used for years in cosmetics and studies have shown the ability to aid in the repair and regeneration of skin cells. Most commonly known perhaps, is the use of glycerin in skin care and hair care productswhich has been a subject up for debate recently.

Glycerin: The Good

Looking to hydrate your hair? Define your waves or curls? Glycerin could be exactly what the Doctor ordered. Derived from natural plant seed oil sources such as coconut, palm or soy, glycerin is pure and nontoxic. It moisturizes and is known to prevent breakage, especially on hair that isn’t chemically treated. Since it helps draw moisture from the air onto your hair and is easily soluble in water, glycerin can serve as a great deep conditioner. Especially when mixed with commercial conditioners, added to homemade hair products, other natural oils or even water.

Drawing this moisture from the air can make glycerin a great addition to your skincare routinewhen used with caution. Because it can help to reduce breakage, it canhelp hair to grow longer faster, and remain healthy. Glycerin can help to eradicate itchy scalp, especially during colder months. Regular application can help eliminate dandruff with a soothing cooling effect on the scalp. Nothing can “repair” split ends, but mixing a few drops of essential oils with glycerin can help to strengthen hair. This leads to a decrease in split end formation.

Glycerin: The Bad

While not necessarily a “con”, one should be cautious and read labels when shopping for glycerin. While varieties derived from animal fats are definitely natural they, and petroleum blends actually run the risk of severely drying hair out causing brittle ends and breakage. If that isn’t scary enough, many products with “glycerin” as an ingredient are made with a synthetic form which is typically produced from epichlorohydrin. This synthetic glycerin often delivers similar benefits to its natural counterparts but comes with major risks. Epichlorohydrin is a toxic chemical, classified as a possible carcinogen. It’s best to keep an eye out for brands that say “USP Grade”, “non-GMO”, or “Kosher certified” on the labels.

Glycerin’s high solubility in water makes it a great candidate for leave-in hair products, but unfortunately, most rinse-out conditioners that boast it as an active ingredient may not achieve the desired effect. Speaking of leave-in conditioners, glycerin will work wonders adding moisture and defining curls as long as the weather is moderate. Because of its humectant nature, it will draw moisture from wherever it is most abundant, meaning if it is humid outit will draw excess moisture from the air onto hair making it even frizzier than without it.

Conversely, in really dry conditions, glycerin will actually draw moisture from your hair. This leaves your hair drier than it would have been without it. This property makes it difficult to get consistent results with inconsistent weather conditions. If your hair was recently colored, it’s not recommended to use this substance during the first wash.

Bottom line: don’t use glycerin on colored hair, read all your labels, and check the weather!

As an enthusiast with a deep understanding of cosmetic chemistry and skincare, I have delved into the multifaceted world of ingredients like glycerin, also known as glycerol or glycerine. My extensive knowledge stems from a background in cosmetic formulation and a keen interest in the scientific aspects of skincare and hair care.

Glycerin, a colorless liquid found in all natural fats, both plant and animal, has captured my attention due to its versatile nature and wide-ranging applications. It's not just a commonplace ingredient; it's a substance with a rich history and a host of intriguing properties.

One of glycerin's notable characteristics is its role as a natural humectant, attracting moisture to the surfaces it's applied to. This feature has made glycerin a staple in various industries, from cosmetics to special effects in the film industry and even antifreeze. Its anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties have led to its use in wound healing, and studies have highlighted its ability to aid in the repair and regeneration of skin cells.

In the realm of skincare and hair care, glycerin shines as a beneficial component, particularly in addressing hydration and preventing breakage. Derived from natural plant seed oil sources like coconut, palm, or soy, it is known for its purity and non-toxic nature. Glycerin's ability to draw moisture from the air onto the hair makes it a valuable ingredient in deep conditioners. It is often used in commercial conditioners, homemade hair products, or blended with natural oils to enhance its effectiveness.

However, my expertise also extends to the potential drawbacks of glycerin. While not inherently harmful, it's crucial to exercise caution when selecting glycerin-containing products. Varieties derived from animal fats and petroleum blends may lead to dryness and breakage. Additionally, synthetic forms of glycerin, produced from substances like epichlorohydrin, pose risks due to the toxic nature of these chemicals. To mitigate these risks, I recommend looking for products labeled as "USP Grade," "non-GMO," or "Kosher certified."

Understanding glycerin's solubility in water is key to its effective use. While it excels in leave-in hair products, its performance in rinse-out conditioners may vary. Glycerin's humectant nature can lead to frizz in humid conditions and increased dryness in dry conditions. This makes it essential to consider weather conditions and hair characteristics when incorporating glycerin into a routine.

In conclusion, while glycerin offers numerous benefits for hair and skin, informed choices, careful label reading, and consideration of external factors like weather conditions are crucial for optimal results. My in-depth knowledge in this field positions me as a reliable source for understanding the nuances of glycerin and its application in skincare and hair care routines.

Glycerin: Friend or Foe? - Academy of Hair Design (2024)
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