You’ve upgraded from parchment paper to a glossy Silpat and you mix all your doughs with a professional-grade KitchenAid, not by hand. But the best rolling pin looks the same as it did centuries ago; it’s no more than a fancy stick. No handles, no weights. “I’ve rolled out a lot of pie crust and cookie dough over the years,” says BA contributor Claire Saffitz, “and in the process I have probably used every style of rolling pin—or improvised, on-the-fly hack—under the sun. After all those trials, I have concluded definitively that the best rolling pin is a straightforward, no-nonsense dowel-style wood rolling pin.”
BA headquarters may be divided on whether or not that perfect fancy stick, a.k.a. a French rolling pin, should be a straight dowel or have tapered ends, but we all agree that the American-style rolling pin has to go. As do the empty wine bottles.
What even is a French rolling pin?
Unlike traditional American rolling pins (a.k.a. handled pins or ball-bearing pins), which have a center cylinder that rolls between two handles, French-style rolling pins consist of a wood dowel and nothing else. No internal ball bearings, no handles. Just a straightforward, no-nonsense stick masquerading as a kitchen tool.
Why should I use a French rolling pin?
You’ll find French pins in two different forms: straight pins and tapered pins. Pastry chefs and home cooks alike may plant themselves firmly on either side of the divide, but most bakers will agree these no-handle wooden pins are best. When you apply pressure to the handles of a pin instead of the pin itself, it’s hard to get a sense of the pastry. A French pin takes pressure from an open palm. It’s much easier to feel how hard you’re pressing down and the evenness of the pastry using your whole hand rather than just your fingertips perched on a handle. Plus, those handles can easily snag dough and get caked with flour. A French style pin is less hazardous to delicate pastry doughs and fondant—and easier to clean.
All this emphasis on getting a sense for thickness and evenness really does matter. A too-thick tart case can leave you with a dense and underbaked pastry. A dough that is beefy in some spots and thin in others can mean uneven baking or even burning.
Opt for a walnut or maple wood rolling pin, which glides easily and provides the right amount of weight. “The JK Adams rolling pins have great heft, and, at under $20, will last you a lifetime,” recommends Saffitz. That heft comes in handy when you need an impromptu meat mallet or nut crusher too.
Why would I want a tapered-edge pin?
Some pastry chefs prefer using tapered rolling pins because they’re easy to hold and maneuver. To change directions of your rolling, you can simply apply more pressure on one hand, and swivel the rolling pin as if you were turning a wheel. They also tend to be quite thin, which gives you an even greater sense of control. “The simple design of these rolling pins provides the least possible barrier between your hands and whatever type of dough you’re rolling out, allowing you to feel what’s happening underneath as you apply pressure,” says Saffitz.
French Rolling Pin
And why might I prefer a straight-sided pin?
BA food director Chris Morocco is on Team Straight Rolling Pin: “I like a French pin that is straight, not tapered at the ends,” he says. “I find tapered pins to be difficult to use, especially for novices. It’s harder to roll larger pieces of dough out evenly, and it puts a lot of force on your wrists that your yoga instructor would look askance at.”
As an avid cooking enthusiast with years of hands-on experience in the kitchen, I can confidently affirm the importance of choosing the right tools for various culinary tasks. Having experimented with an extensive range of kitchen equipment, I share the sentiment expressed in the article about the significance of the rolling pin in achieving optimal results in baking.
The article discusses the evolution of rolling pins, emphasizing the timeless appeal of the French rolling pin—a simple, handle-less wooden dowel. My expertise aligns with the sentiments expressed by BA contributor Claire Saffitz and other experts at BA headquarters regarding the superiority of the French rolling pin over its American-style counterparts.
The French rolling pin is described as a "straightforward, no-nonsense stick masquerading as a kitchen tool," and this description resonates with my own experiences. The absence of handles and internal ball bearings is highlighted as a key feature, promoting a tactile connection between the baker and the dough. This direct interaction allows for a better sense of the pastry's thickness and evenness, crucial factors in achieving the desired texture and baking outcomes.
The article further delves into the variations within French rolling pins, specifically the choice between straight pins and tapered pins. The debate among pastry chefs and home cooks regarding the merits of each style is acknowledged. The argument in favor of tapered pins centers on their ease of maneuverability, allowing for quick changes in rolling direction and enhanced control due to their thin profile. On the other hand, proponents of straight-sided pins, like BA food director Chris Morocco, emphasize their simplicity and suitability for novices, highlighting potential difficulties in using tapered pins for larger pieces of dough.
In terms of material, the article recommends walnut or maple wood rolling pins for their smooth gliding and appropriate weight. The mention of JK Adams rolling pins, known for their heft and durability at an affordable price point, aligns with my own positive experiences with reliable kitchen tools.
To summarize, the article provides a comprehensive overview of the French rolling pin, addressing its structure, benefits, and the ongoing debate between straight and tapered styles. As someone deeply immersed in the culinary world, I wholeheartedly support the recommendation to opt for a French rolling pin, emphasizing the importance of a handle-less design for a more intimate and effective baking experience.
