Q: We recently transplanted several hydrangeas and are pleased they seem to be doing well. Our question is about the best food for them and when and how often to feed.Someone told us that Epsom salts would be good for hydrangeas. Is that true; what would be the best ratio?
—Betty and Doug Gibson, Vera Cruz
A: The ideal time for fertilizing hydrangea bushes is in the spring and early summer. Some growers recommend an application of slow-release fertilizer at the beginning of the season. A good covering with compost will have a similar effect.
While a general balanced fertilizer, one where all the numbers are the same (10-10-10) is fine, note that a higher phosphorus content (the middle number) will encourage more blooms. This comes at a price — higher phosphorus in the soil can increase the alkalinity in the soil and you may get pink blooms instead of blue ones. This is because phosphorus alters the aluminum uptake (ideal at pH 5 to 5.8) to the plants.
Hydrangea macrophylla, ones with pink and blue ones, are affected by the pH of the soil. A pH below 6 is best for blue flowers; above 6 encourages pink ones.
Adding Epsom salts to your plant increases the amount of magnesium in the soil. Some plants are heavy feeders — personally, I’ve used Epsom salts on potted scented geraniums.
Does it help? Experts are divided. Some say that the additional magnesium and sulfate restore depleted supplies in the soil. Others say that any effect is minimal. So the answer is a definite maybe.
The Epsom Salt Council (www.epsomsaltcouncil.org) recommends one tablespoon per nine square feet, applied to the root zone of the shrubs at two- to four-week intervals.
Instead, I suggest determining the pH of the soil, check for deficiencies, correct them and then, if you really want to, adjust the pH, adding composted oak leaves, pine needles or coffee grounds to raise acidity and lower the pH; wood ash or lime to raise alkalinity and raise pH.
There are fertilizer mixes specifically suited for hydrangeas; Organic Espoma products: Soil Acidifier or Garden Lime; Bonide or Bailey’s Blue or Pink fertilizers.
Bagworms on arborvitae
Q: I have a border of arborvitaes. Two were infested with bagworms and now the top foliage is brown. I sprayed them with triazicide. Any other treatment suggestions? Should I remove the dead foliage?
—JMS
A: Bagworms are dark brown caterpillars. They create small silky pouches that they wear while moving about, feeding on our plants, and retreat to them at night. They also lay eggs in the pouches.
Triazicide does kill bagworms; it is a long-acting, broad-spectrum insecticide. But, as the package states, it effectively kills at least 260 different insects on contact, and not all of them are bad.
If you notice the bagworms and the plants are not huge, cut the damaged stems and the bagworms off the plant and dispose of them. If the larvae are still young — they emerge in late May — spray your trees with Btk (Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki), spinosad or permethrin.
If the affected plants are part of a larger group, a row or cluster, you should probably treat the entire group. If you use any commercial product, be sure it is effective on bagworms and follow all directions. In the fall or winter, locate any remaining bags, and remove and destroy as these hold the eggs for next spring’s hatching.
In the garden
The dogwood is showing leaf color, and a light breeze brings a few yellow leaves swirling down. It’s officially autumn. The days are noticeably shorter, but the weather is still warm so don’t move indoors quite yet.
Stop pruning, start planting and get to those winterizing chores — caulking openings to keep out pests, clearing gutters, fixing any damaged windows, checking gutters — before things do get cold.
I’m trying to resurrect the potted plants that didn’t get enough water. Some are definitely dead but others should recover by spring. The weeds are also out of control so I may just weed-whip them down and deal with what’s left in the spring.
We really enjoyed the peaches and nectarines that I picked a few weeks ago. So, last weekend, I took husband Fran back to Hamilton Orchard (hamiltonfamilyorchards.com) and picked a bag of Fuji apples, some Cortlands to bake with, and some fresh cider. If you don’t grow your own, look for U-pick farms in your area and enjoy local fresh produce. Or visit one of the local farm markets and have someone else do the work.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, P.O. Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
This week in the garden
*Planting:
*Plant pansies, asters, mums and other fall plants.
*Sow seeds that require a cold period for germination.
*Plant perennials, trees and shrubs.
*Seasonal:
*Allow flowers and grasses to set seed as food for wildlife.
*Pot up plants to winter-over indoors.
*Order plants/bulbs for fall planting.
*Cut back peony greens to three to four inches tall.
*Lawn:
*Seed, overseed, sod, dethatch and aerate lawns.
*Apply broadleaf weed control.
*Treat for chinch bugs and sod webworms.
*Fertilize.
*Cut lawn to about 2 1/2 to 3 inches tall.
*Keep new lawns watered.
*Repair holes and low spots in lawn.
*Chores:
*Watch for frosts. Protect tender plants and get a few more weeks of color.
*Stop pruning.
*Order/buy winter mulch but apply after the ground freezes.
*Store the dry, dormant amaryllis bulbs in a cool dry area until they resprout.
*Ease plants indoors; get them in before you turn on the heating system.
*Harvest regularly. Remove and compost spent plants. Destroy or trash diseased or infested plants.
*Water new plantings regularly; most need an inch of rain or watering per week. Water containers frequently, often daily.
*Repair or replace damaged screens and garden hoses.
*Dump standing water to help control mosquito populations.
*Provide deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents.
*Clean and fill bird feeders and birdbaths regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls.
*Remove, clean and store hummingbird feeders when the birds are gone.
*Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.
*Tools, equipment and supplies:
*Check seed inventory for late crops and fall planting.
*Inventory/restock seed starting and potting supplies. Clean and disinfect pots and trays before storing.
*Check fall equipment and replace or repair. Sharpen blades, get fresh gas, check and/or replace oil. Store spring tools.
*Safety:
*Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly.
*Clear lawns before mowing. Make sure people and pets are clear of the mowing area.
*Wear closed-toe shoes.
*Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Discard outdated ones at local chemical collection events.
*Don’t prune anything you can’t reach from the ground. Hire a certified and insured tree pruner for high pruning, heavy branches or for work around power lines.
*Avoid mosquito and tick bites: Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin. Apply a permethrin product to clothing. Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden.
*Stay hydrated. Drink water or other non-caffeinated, nonalcoholic beverages.
*Apply sunscreen, wear hats and limit exposure to sun.
*Wear gloves; use eye protection; and use ear protection when using any loud power tools.
—Sue Kittek
I'm Sue Kittek, a seasoned garden columnist, writer, and lecturer with a profound understanding of horticulture. Over the years, I've cultivated my expertise through hands-on experience, research, and a passion for all things related to gardening. My knowledge extends to various aspects of plant care, pest management, and seasonal gardening practices.
Now, let's delve into the concepts mentioned in the article:
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Fertilizing Hydrangea Bushes:
- Ideal time: Spring and early summer.
- Slow-release fertilizer recommended at the beginning of the season.
- Balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) is suitable, but higher phosphorus content encourages more blooms.
- pH of the soil affects flower color; below 6 for blue, above 6 for pink.
-
Epsom Salts for Hydrangeas:
- Epsom salts increase magnesium in the soil.
- Experts are divided on its effectiveness; some believe it restores depleted supplies, while others claim minimal impact.
- Epsom Salt Council recommends one tablespoon per nine square feet at two- to four-week intervals.
-
Alternative Soil Amendments for pH Adjustment:
- Determine soil pH and correct deficiencies.
- Adjust pH using composted oak leaves, pine needles, or coffee grounds for acidity; wood ash or lime for alkalinity.
-
Specific Fertilizers for Hydrangeas:
- Recommended products: Espoma Soil Acidifier, Garden Lime, Bonide, Bailey’s Blue, or Pink fertilizers.
-
Bagworms on Arborvitae:
- Bagworms are dark brown caterpillars that create silky pouches.
- Triazicide is a broad-spectrum insecticide effective against bagworms.
- If plants are not large, cut off damaged stems and bagworms.
- For young larvae, use Btk, spinosad, or permethrin.
- Treat the entire group for larger infestations; remove and destroy bags in fall or winter.
-
General Gardening Tips:
- Seasonal tasks include planting fall plants, sowing seeds, and caring for perennials, trees, and shrubs.
- Lawn care involves seeding, overseeding, sodding, dethatching, aerating, and applying weed control and fertilizer.
- Various chores, such as watching for frosts, stopping pruning, and providing winter protection, are essential.
These concepts encompass a comprehensive guide to nurturing hydrangeas, dealing with pests like bagworms, and maintaining a healthy garden throughout the seasons. If you have any specific questions or need further details on these topics, feel free to ask.
