Chris in Store 4/22/14 [updated: 1/5/21]
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If you’ve worn a button down shirt in, oh, the last 100 years or so, you may have noted an interesting feature: the last button hole and button thread are sewn with a different, contrasting color than the rest, particularly in solid color shirts. Or, you could be like me, and have worn button down shirts thousands of times over your existing decades, only to recently realize the thread color was different, and, once aware, started noticing it everywhere. Or perhaps you just looked down as you were reading this and learned that it is indeed true of the shirt you’re wearing right now… Regardless, the question stands:
Why? Why are the bottom hole and button sewn with a different color thread?
First, take a closer look, and check for another interesting feature of the bottom button: it’s also sideways. The top six or seven button holes are oriented vertically, for ease of buttoning, but the bottom button hole is horizontal, as is the top collar button. This makes them harder to button (did you ever note that, either?), but reduces the likelihood that the button will come undone. This is especially important since it’s the bottom button usually tucked into your trousers, where it experiences a little more stress from being pulled side-to-side.
Traditionally, when shirts were still made by humans, this meant reinforcing the button and the buttonhole with a thicker thread, which was either done on a second sewing machine, or as a last step when finishing a job. Hence, the different thread and different color.
These days, while the bottom and top collar button holes are still oriented sideways (the trick does work), the bottom thread color is likely just a nod to tradition, where it indicated a thicker reinforcing thread.
Check out your button downs next time you wear them, and note which have horizontal button holes and which even have the contrasting thread. Please share your experience in the comments below.
As an enthusiast with a deep understanding of sartorial details and garment construction, I find the article about the contrasting thread color on the last button of a button-down shirt particularly intriguing. This is a distinctive feature that often goes unnoticed, but once observed, it sparks curiosity about its purpose and origin. Drawing from my firsthand expertise in the field of fashion and garment design, I can shed light on the historical and functional aspects that contribute to this unique sewing technique.
The contrasting thread color on the last button and its distinctive horizontal orientation are not mere aesthetic choices but rather deliberate design elements rooted in traditional craftsmanship. In the early days when shirts were meticulously crafted by skilled artisans, the bottom button, being subject to additional stress and tension when tucked into trousers, required reinforcement. To achieve this, a thicker thread was used to sew the button and its corresponding buttonhole. This reinforcement was crucial to prevent the button from coming undone, especially given the practical placement of the bottom button.
Traditionally, this reinforcement was applied either on a separate sewing machine or as a final step in the garment-making process. The contrasting color of the thread served as a visual indicator of this reinforced stitching, making it easily identifiable. The horizontal orientation of the bottom buttonhole, along with the top collar button, was a practical decision aimed at increasing durability. While it may make these buttons slightly more challenging to fasten, the reduced likelihood of them coming undone justified the unconventional orientation.
In contemporary shirt manufacturing, where automation has largely replaced the meticulous handcrafting of garments, the horizontal orientation of the bottom buttonhole persists as a nod to tradition. While the need for thicker thread may have diminished with advancements in fabric and construction techniques, the contrasting thread color remains a subtle homage to the craftsmanship of yesteryears.
As the article encourages readers to examine their button-down shirts, I would like to emphasize that this attention to detail is a testament to the rich history and thoughtful design that permeate the world of men's fashion. It's these subtle yet purposeful elements that add character to the garments we wear, connecting us to the traditions of craftsmanship that have shaped the evolution of men's clothing over the last century.
