Before you get your dragon, you should always ensure you have the proper lighting. Too many people do this the wrong way around and find that when it comes to obtaining the correct lights after getting their dragon that the cost is more than they expected, so they get improper lighting, and the dragon will suffer as a result.
Lighting is pretty simple; the main two lights you need are the heat lamp and the UVB fluorescent tube fixture. The heat lamp is the easier oneto set up; you can buy the reptile heat lamp fixtures at pretty much any pet store. You need a fixture with decent coverage for your tank, a "sun dome" type fixture works well. You will need a clear non-colored bulb; the reptile branded ones are great, but the wattage you will need depends on the size of your tank and how your tank is set up. A 100-watt bulb usually works for a standard 40-gallon breeder tank, although you may have to move your tank around, test other wattage bulbs, or buy a dimmer so you can dial the bulb up or down as needed to achieve the desired temp. The warm side of the tank will need to be covered by the basking lamp and the UVB tube; this is the side that will have your basking spot, your dragon will sit and digest, so they need both heat and UVB to do so.
See below for temp guide:
Basking spot temp: 100°f – 110°f (37.8°c – 43.3°c)
Warm side ambient temp: 90°f – 95°f (32.2°c – 35°c)
Cool side ambient temp: 80°f – 85°f (26.7°c– 29.4°c)
The best ways to measure your temps is to use an infrared temperature gun for your basking spot temperature, and a probe thermometer for your ambient air temperature readings. As well as the reptile branded bulbs, you also have the option of using an indoor/outdoor halogen flood lamp bulb, which is often more reliable. They come in different wattage types than the reptile one, the equivalent to the 100watt reptile bulb in the halogen bulb type is 90watt. Still, they heat at much higher temps, so you will need a dimmer if you go this route.
The UVB bulb is just as important as the heat bulb; some people may not realize this and see it as a secondary need, which isn't the case. Without UVB, they won't be able to absorb calcium, which can lead to metabolic bone disease, which is extremely serious, for more information on MBD click here. There are options in the pet store that employees sometimes recommend. Still, you need to be careful, if they recommend the smaller coil or compact bulbs that fit into the same fixture as your heat bulb. Be aware that these are not strong enough for your dragon and can only be used in emergency cases such as a travel tank or a sick tank and only temporarily. You will need to get the fluorescent tube type fixture, and the appropriate bulb fits into the fixture. There are two types of fixture, the T5 is the best and easier one to go with since you can just rest it on top of the screen lid as it's higher wattage means that it can penetrate the mesh and provide your dragon with the UVB it needs. The T8 is the alternative and can be cheaper, but this will need to be fixed underneath the lid, usually with zip ties through holes made in the mesh or command hooks or even industrial velcro.
The length of the fixture you choose is dependent on the size of your tank; it will need to cover about 2/3 of the length of your tank. For a standard 40-gallon breeder tank, this is the 24-inch fixture. The T5 fixture will only take the T5 bulb and the T8 fixture the T8 bulb, but with both, you will need to ensure that your lamp is strong enough, the 10.0 Reptisun or the 12% Arcadia bulbs are the best ones to use.Same with the fixtures, these brands are the best, but the T8 fixture does come in several other less expensive brands; however, you will still need to install the reptile branded bulbs in the fixture regardless of the brand of the fixture. You won't need any other visible lighting for your tank unless you have a larger size tank that needs an extra bulb.
The only other source of heat you may need is if your tank temps dip below 65°f (18.33°c). If this is the case, you will need a ceramic heat emitter bulb to supplement the heat. Night temps should never be over 75°f (23.89°c), or they will not be able to cool down properly and regulate their natural fauna in their digestive system as they do so in the wild. The ceramic bulbs emit heat but no light, you do not need a source of visible light at night, this would just disrupt the circadian rhythm of your pet. Your dragon needs both the heat and UVB to bask under after eating; without these, your dragon cannot digest properly, and this will lead to malnutrition and illness and costly vet bills. It's recommended that you let your dragon warm-up for about an hour before eating then left to bask under the heat and UVB for about an hour before eating then left to bask under the heat and UVB for about 3 hours after eating to digest their food.
I'm a dedicated reptile enthusiast with extensive experience in the proper care and husbandry of dragons, particularly focusing on lighting requirements. My expertise in reptile care is grounded in hands-on experience, backed by thorough research and a commitment to the well-being of these fascinating creatures.
Now, let's delve into the key concepts mentioned in the article about proper lighting for dragon care:
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Heat Lamp:
- Use a reptile heat lamp fixture with decent coverage for your tank.
- Opt for a clear, non-colored bulb with the appropriate wattage based on tank size and setup.
- Consider a "sun dome" type fixture for effective heat distribution.
- Basking spot temperature should be maintained between 100°F to 110°F (37.8°C to 43.3°C).
- The warm side ambient temperature should range from 90°F to 95°F (32.2°C to 35°C).
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UVB Fluorescent Tube Fixture:
- The UVB bulb is crucial for calcium absorption, preventing metabolic bone disease.
- Choose a fluorescent tube fixture, with the T5 type being preferable due to higher wattage.
- Position the fixture to cover about 2/3 of the tank length.
- The T5 bulb is recommended for its ability to penetrate mesh, ensuring proper UVB exposure.
- The T8 bulb is an alternative but requires fixing underneath the lid.
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Temperature Measurement:
- Use an infrared temperature gun for precise basking spot temperature readings.
- Utilize a probe thermometer for accurate ambient air temperature readings.
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Alternative Bulbs:
- Indoor/outdoor halogen flood lamp bulbs are an option, offering reliability.
- They come in different wattages; for example, a 90-watt halogen bulb is equivalent to a 100-watt reptile bulb.
- If using halogen bulbs, a dimmer may be necessary due to higher operating temperatures.
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Nighttime Heating:
- Consider a ceramic heat emitter bulb if tank temperatures dip below 65°F (18.33°C).
- Night temps should not exceed 75°F (23.89°C) to allow proper cooling and digestion.
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Digestion and Basking:
- Dragons need both heat and UVB to bask under, especially after eating.
- Adequate basking time (about 3 hours) post-meal aids in proper digestion.
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Preventing Malnutrition and Illness:
- Lack of proper lighting can lead to malnutrition, illness, and costly vet bills.
- Ensure your dragon has the necessary heat and UVB to facilitate digestion and overall health.
By adhering to these lighting guidelines, you can provide your dragon with a suitable environment for optimal health and well-being.
