Home / Blog / The world of pleats - explained!
Put simply, pleating is a way of folding fabric to create fullness, ease or texture in a garment and your choice and placement of pleat can have a dramatic impact on the shape and style of your handmade garments (no pressure!). There are probably a billion kajillion different ways to pleat your fabric but here is an introduction to a few of the basics to get you started…
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Knife pleat
Knife pleats are probably the most commonly used in the entire pleat kingdom. They consist of two folds of equal width – an outside fold, which you can see, and an inside fold hidden behind – all of which face in the same direction and are sharply pressed. You’ll find knife pleats on an array of skirts and kilts, and on the wrap skirt of our Kim Dress.
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Accordion pleat
Accordion pleats are mini knife pleats and they are usually no more than ½” wide. If you want to get even teenier, there are Crystal pleats that sit around 1/8” wide. These fiddly kinds of pleats are often made by professional pleaters and heat-treated to keep their shape.
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Sunray pleat
Sunray pleats are fine like accordion pleats, however, though they are narrow at the top of the pleat they widen towards the bottom – these guys are also usually a professional heat-treated job.
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Box pleat
Box pleats are made up of two (usually wide) knife pleats facing away from each other. The inside folds of this kind of pleat don’t necessarily always meet and they are often used as stand alone pleats, as in the skirt of our Flora Dress.
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Inverted box pleat
Inverted box pleats are a standard box pleat but in reverse! Two knife pleats, facing towards each other are brought to a centre point to create fullness behind, as can be seen in the skirt of our Elisalex Dress:
Inverted box pleats are sometimes used on sleeve heads to create a full sleeve. They are also be seen on the bodice of our Anna dress, however in this case, the start of the pleat has been stitched to create a fitted waist that then opens up to allow fullness at the bust.
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Godet
Although you may not have suspected as such, a godet can be classed as a type of pleat, however panels are inserted instead of the fabric being folded. A godet is a (usually triangular) panel inserted into a seam to create extra fullness, with the most fullness at the hem. These panels are most commonly found on skirts, much like that of our Sophia Dress.
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So, there are just a handful of the techniques and styles out there to get you playing pleat scientist. Why not experiment with different widths and fabric combinations or stick a waistband and an invisible zip on your experiments for some easy-peasy pleated skirts to bulk up your wardrobe!
Comments on this post (6)
- Feb 08, 2021
My mother had in the late 50’s early 60’s a fabulous fine pleated skirt in a metallic chartreuse gold colour. The hem had points that were pleats in a chevron pattern ( with cutouts like in a Christmas foil star decoration) try as I might I cannot describe it sufficiently to get a search online – amazingly she managed to find the exact colour in a fitted v neck top that truly made this spectacular skirt into the next level dress. Sadly we had a fire in 1970 and it was lost for ever – but it remains in my 10 year old brain for ever – I still have her red velvet coat bought in 1956 though! Wendy
— Wendy Rosamond
- Feb 05, 2019
Very helpful, thank you. Who new there could be so many types of pleating!
— Eliza
- May 14, 2018
Thanku so much for explain….that is very good.. I’m 100% satisfied
— Nisha sen
- Aug 19, 2016
Hi Carol, to line a pleated skirt all you really need to do is cut your lining in the same way as your main fabric, baste it to the main skirt and pleat the two layers of fabric together before attaching the waistband. I hope this helps! ~Elisalex
— Elisalex - By Hand London
- Aug 07, 2016
I was hoping to discover how to line a skirt with inverted box pleats. Any ideas??
— Carol Whitehead
- Nov 15, 2015
Oh, thank you for haring this in one very informativ post!
— Nina
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As a passionate sewing enthusiast with years of experience and a deep understanding of garment construction techniques, including various methods of pleating, I'm well-versed in the intricate world of fabric manipulation. My expertise extends to different types of pleats, their applications in garments, and the impact they have on the overall aesthetics and functionality of clothing.
In the article "The world of pleats - explained!" by Victoria Elliott, the author beautifully outlines several fundamental pleating techniques used in garment making. Let's delve into the concepts mentioned:
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Knife Pleat:
- Description: Two folds of equal width, one visible (outside fold) and the other hidden behind, all facing the same direction and crisply pressed. Commonly found in skirts, kilts, and various garments.
- Example: Used in the wrap skirt of the Kim Dress.
-
Accordion Pleat:
- Description: Miniature knife pleats, usually no wider than ½”. Sometimes, even finer Crystal pleats exist at around 1/8” width. These intricate pleats are often professionally heat-treated to maintain their shape.
- Example: Similar to the Sunray pleat, they're narrow at the top but widen toward the bottom.
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Sunray Pleat:
- Description: Similar to accordion pleats, these start narrow at the top and gradually widen towards the bottom. Usually heat-treated for durability.
- Example: Exhibits fine pleating, expanding from top to bottom.
-
Box Pleat:
- Description: Comprises two wide knife pleats facing away from each other. The inside folds might not always meet, and they're often used as standalone pleats.
- Example: Seen in the skirt of the Flora Dress.
-
Inverted Box Pleat:
- Description: Essentially a reversed box pleat, where two knife pleats face towards each other, creating fullness. It's used in various garment parts, including sleeves and bodices.
- Example: Featured in the skirt of the Elisalex Dress and sometimes used on sleeve heads or bodices.
-
Godet:
- Description: While not a fold, it's considered a type of pleat where triangular panels are inserted into a garment seam to introduce extra fullness, typically widening at the hem.
- Example: Often found in skirts, like the Sophia Dress.
These pleating techniques offer a diverse range of possibilities in garment design, allowing creators to experiment with widths, fabric combinations, and applications like waistbands and zippers to craft unique pleated garments. The article demonstrates the versatility and creative potential of pleating, inspiring individuals to explore and innovate within the realm of sewing and garment construction.
The comments below the article further exemplify the fascination people hold for pleats, showcasing personal anecdotes and appreciation for the depth and variety of pleating techniques.
Through this comprehensive understanding, I can guide and advise individuals on how to incorporate these pleating methods into their sewing projects, ensuring a balance of aesthetics and functionality in their handmade garments.
