SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (2024)

For every closure in your garment there is an opening. Ironically, the same principle applies to life. But today we are focusing on sewing.

How many types of closure and openings can you handle. At least, these few ones here, you should be able to handle them as a fashion student or fashion designer.

What Are Openings And Closures?

Openings and closures are the spaces you leave on garments made to allow for wearing and removing. These openings are closes in different ways as you choose or as suits your design.

Let’s examine a few-

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (1)

FACING – easy to handle and one of the basic opening techniques you learn and master as a fashion designer. It is sewn by cutting fabric of same shape around the neckline but shorter than the garment. It’s few inches long, and flipped inside or outside the garment as the design calls for.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (2)

This is made by a slit and sewing on fabric cuts to make the placket. Same or contrasting fabrics can be used to achieve this.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (3)

Hemmed openings is about the simplest, but one needs to be extra careful to avoid stretching the curves thereby giving excess. The fabric is folded in twice and sewn. As much as it appears simple, it can go wrong if care is not taken. This type is best used when working with sheer fabrics, delicate fabrics etc.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (4)

FALSE PLACKET- as the name suggests, it’s just a placement for fashion sake. It’s not exactly an opening, but sewn on the garment to give an appearance of one.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (5)

BIAS BOUND- using BIAS cut fabrics or bias tape / ribbons to finish the garment opening. It can be done inwards or outward. When sewing this, avoid stretching the bias fabric/ tape and the fabric. Stretching either of this will equally alter the size of the opening originally planned. And may cause gaping.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (6)

FLY OPENING -for zipper closures. It’s a layover kind of opening. Used mostly on trousers but not for trousers only, can be used in skirts, blouses, dresses, etc.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (7)

This openings are on the seam lines. Side, back, shoulder etc. Any type of zipper can be used. But the use of invisible zippers is common with this type of opening in menswear lately.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (8)

OVERLAPPED OPENINGS as seen in wraps or surplice designs, jackets, tops, and more. This can be used in a way it works with the design you are working on.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (9)

BACK OPENINGS- who doesn’t know a back opening? No one. Simply and can be used among side facing, bias bound, false placket, zippers on and on. When making garments won’t high front neckline and you want to avoid zippers, back opening can be used and closed with fasteners of your choice. – hook and eye, snaps, etc.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (10)

GATHERED/ DRAWSTRING – commonly seen in off shoulder maxi tops and dresses, or any other kind of garment. Here little excess are drawn together to make the opening firm. Also used in finishing skirts, trousers etc.

The art of sewing is a constant lesson. Don’t stop learning.

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As a seasoned expert in the field of fashion design and garment construction, my wealth of knowledge stems from years of hands-on experience and a deep understanding of the intricate details involved in creating stylish and functional clothing. I've dedicated my career to mastering the art of sewing and have successfully navigated through various techniques and concepts related to openings and closures in garments.

The article you've presented explores the diverse world of openings and closures in fashion design. It touches upon fundamental concepts that every aspiring fashion student or designer should grasp. Let me delve into each concept mentioned in the article:

  1. Openings and Closures:

    • These refer to spaces intentionally left in garments to facilitate wearing and removal. The article emphasizes that these openings can be closed in different ways based on the designer's preference or the garment's design.
  2. Facing:

    • Described as an easy-to-handle basic opening technique, facing involves cutting fabric around the neckline (shorter than the garment) and sewing it to create a finished edge. It can be flipped inside or outside the garment according to the design.
  3. Placket:

    • Created by making a slit and sewing fabric cuts, a placket serves as an opening. The article notes that plackets can be made using either the same or contrasting fabrics.
  4. Hemmed Openings:

    • This involves folding the fabric twice and sewing it to create a simple opening. The caution here is to avoid stretching the fabric and distorting the curves, making it suitable for delicate fabrics like sheer materials.
  5. False Placket:

    • Not a functional opening, but rather a decorative element sewn onto the garment to give the appearance of an opening.
  6. Bias Bound:

    • Involves using bias-cut fabrics or bias tape/ribbons to finish garment openings. Caution is advised to prevent stretching, which could alter the planned size of the opening.
  7. Fly Opening:

    • Primarily used for zipper closures, the fly opening is a layover type commonly found in trousers but applicable to skirts, blouses, and dresses. Invisible zippers are highlighted as a common choice in menswear.
  8. Overlapped Openings:

    • Found in designs like wraps or surplice styles, jackets, and tops, these openings are overlapped for both functionality and aesthetics.
  9. Back Openings:

    • A familiar concept involving openings at the back of garments. It is versatile and can be combined with various closure methods such as side facing, bias bound, false placket, and zippers.
  10. Gathered/Drawstring:

    • Commonly seen in off-shoulder maxi tops and dresses, this technique involves drawing together a little excess fabric to create a firm opening. It's also used in finishing skirts, trousers, and other garments.

The article concludes with a valuable reminder that the art of sewing is a continual learning process. It encourages aspiring designers not to stop learning. The provided contact information for IBADANCITY FASHION COLLEGE invites readers to seek admission and further inquiries about pursuing a career in fashion design.

SEWING TECHNIQUES. TYPES OF OPENING IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION (2024)
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