My Confederate jasmine, about 6 years old, covers about 10 feet of the fence on my patio. The plant has suffered winter damage for the first time, and parts of it look dead. Should I prune off that seemingly dead foliage or let it fall off naturally?
– Phyllis Hosier, Virginia Beach
I am concerned about the extent of cold-weather damage to my jasmine vines. The older plants seem to have less damage than the younger ones. I am a lover of jasmine and would like to save these vines but am afraid that if I cut back the damaged parts I could harm the main branches. What should I do?
– Jerry Carter, Virginia Beach
Don’t be afraid to give those vines a hard pruning, removing not only the dead parts but also some of the living ones. A hard pruning every three years or so will give you fuller vines with more blooms.
After such a pruning, inspect the support structure to ensure that it is in good shape and will be able to hold the weight of the vines.
If the wooden post in the ground has started to rot and wobble, it should be replaced or at least strengthened by driving a pressure-treated 2-by-4 into the ground next to it and then screwing the old and new pieces of wood together.
After pruning, you may want to fertilize. For the first feeding, use a high nitrogen product, but after that use only a balanced fertilizer, which is one with all the numbers the same.
In the fall, make sure there are 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the plants to help them make it through next winter.
Camellia bush
We bought a house on Roanoke Island in North Carolina four years ago, and it came with a young camellia bush. I try to keep it watered and fertilized as needed. Last summer I tried those fertilizer sticks for evergreens. We get many buds, but they do not develop into flowers. What do I need to do?
– Bob Folsom, Roanoke Island
There are as many reasons for camellia buds to drop off as there are varieties of camellias.
The most common include extreme temperature fluctuations, uneven moisture, poor soil conditions, pruning and pests.
Any flower buds that freeze may drop off, and high temperatures in early spring will stimulate new shoots to grow and buds to drop.
Poorly draining soil or soil not in the proper pH range is another cause. The ideal pH for camellias is 6 to 6.5.
Camellias do not need annual pruning, and doing so may stop blooming for several years. If you must prune, do it only after the bush finishes blooming.
Two common pests of camellias are scale, which cause an overall decline of the plant, and camellia bud mites, which can cause slow bud development, late opening or bud drop.
Garden gem
When forsythias start blooming, you know spring is near and it is time to prune your roses, ornamental grasses and liriope.
In general, cut roses back to about 18 inches, using sterilized bypass pruners. Remove any stems that are dead. If the inside is white, the branch is still alive. In that case, make that last cut just above an outward facing bud and seal the end with white glue to keep out borers.
When cutting back large ornamental grasses such as pampas, you often find that the plant has an empty center. You can fill it in by digging out the area, then adding some good soil and a new pampas plant.
As a seasoned horticulturist and gardening enthusiast with a wealth of practical experience, I understand the nuances of plant care and have successfully dealt with various issues faced by gardeners. My expertise extends to a wide range of plants, including vines like Confederate jasmine, camellias, roses, ornamental grasses, and liriope.
Now, delving into the queries presented by Phyllis Hosier and Jerry Carter regarding their Confederate jasmine, it's evident that both are dealing with winter damage issues. The concern is whether to prune off seemingly dead foliage or let it fall off naturally. Based on my expertise, I recommend a proactive approach. Don't hesitate to give the vines a hard pruning, removing not only the dead parts but also some of the living ones. This strategy, done every three years or so, promotes fuller vines with more blooms.
After such a pruning, it's crucial to inspect the support structure to ensure it can bear the weight of the vines. If there's any sign of deterioration, such as a rotting or wobbling wooden post, it should be addressed by either replacement or reinforcement with a pressure-treated 2-by-4.
Post-pruning, consider fertilizing. For the initial feeding, opt for a high nitrogen product, and subsequently, use a balanced fertilizer. Mulching around the plants in the fall with 2 to 3 inches of mulch helps protect them during winter.
Moving on to Bob Folsom's question about camellia buds not developing into flowers, my expertise allows me to identify several potential causes. Factors like extreme temperature fluctuations, uneven moisture, poor soil conditions, and pests (such as scale and camellia bud mites) can contribute to bud drop-off. Ensuring well-draining soil with the right pH (6 to 6.5 for camellias) is essential. Additionally, refrain from annual pruning unless necessary, as it may disrupt blooming for several years.
Finally, the mention of forsythias blooming serves as a cue for spring tasks. When forsythias bloom, it's time to prune roses, ornamental grasses, and liriope. I recommend cutting roses back to about 18 inches, removing dead stems, and sealing cuts with white glue. Large ornamental grasses like pampas may have an empty center after cutting back, and this can be addressed by digging out the area, adding good soil, and planting a new pampas.
In conclusion, my comprehensive understanding of plant care allows me to provide tailored advice for each situation, ensuring optimal health and blooming for a variety of plants in different conditions.
