Pruning fuchsias: when & how - Plantura (2024)

Under optimal conditions, fuchsias grow quickly and uncontrollably. Skilful pruning mediates between lush growth and a tidy appearance.

Fuchsias (Fuchsia) form unique flowers that dance among the green of the leaves on windy summer evenings like little forest fairies in pink dresses. These imaginative plants can decorate your garden for many years. But the magical flowers only form on new shoots from the same year. Pruning fuchsias is essential in order for your plants to shine in full bloom every year and to not become lignified and bare.

Pruning fuchsias: the best time

Fuchsias should be cut back in autumn before the first frost, and in the spring after overwintering, as soon as budding begins.

Pruning and overwintering fuchsias

Proper topiary can only be done in autumn when fuchsias can be overwintered in a very cool and dark place. Otherwise, only a rough cut should be done in autumn. This involves cutting back about a third of the year’s growth and removing any remaining leaves and wilted flowers. Exceptions are small-leaved fuchsias such as F. microphyll. Do not defoliate them before overwintering. When pruning, do not be afraid to cut back shoots that have grown over the year. For fuchsias, one-year-old shoots continue to grow, but no longer form flowers. Therefore, for a fuchsia to retain its youthful flowery appearance, annual pruning is absolutely necessary.

When pruning, leave at least one to two buds per shoot. Where shoots have already branched, the cutting point should be behind the first bud after the last branching point. The cut should be made about 2 cm behind the bud. Whether you use a knife or scissors is up to you. Ensure that the selected tool is sharp and clean. Otherwise, the wood will be damaged and diseases can be transmitted. Allow the cut site to dry a little. Otherwise, weeping wounds provide ideal entry points for fungal infections. You should also remove dead, very thin and inward-growing branches. Unwanted shoots should be cut off before the first bud – so the shoot’s growth becomes stunted. Aside from aesthetics, this also increases aeration within the plant. Diseased shoots should be cut back to the healthy wooden stem.

Pruning is not necessarily essential. This is because fresh cuts provide entry points for pests and diseases. However, it allows the plants to be stored better in winter and the air will be able to circulate better, which in turn reduces susceptibility to damage. Incidentally, young fuchsias, which have been cultivated with plenty of light and at temperatures above 10 °C throughout the year, can be cut into shape even during the winter.

After autumn pruning, exotic fuchsias should be kept in sheltered winter quarters. The ideal place for overwintering fuchsias is cool (at least 2 °C), dark and dry. There are also hardy fuchsia species that can be overwintered in beds with proper winter protection. More information on hardy fuchsias can be found here.

Note: removed shoots do not need to be disposed of as organic waste. Instead, you can give the shoots a new life as cuttings and gain a new fuchsia plant. Everything you need to know about the propagation of fuchsias via cuttings can be found here.

Pruning fuchsias in the spring

Fuchsias, which are kept at over 12 °C and have plenty of light during winter, for example, in a greenhouse or even a bright cellar, are ready for topiary in the spring. However, spring pruning is also recommended for sensitive and very woody varieties. The rule is: the greater the pruning before winter, the less pruning needed in spring. In total, you should cut back about one to two-thirds of the annual growth, including the autumn pruning.

Pruning hanging fuchsia varieties

For hanging fuchsia varieties, one bud should be left per shoot. Cut the shoots so that they protrude about 2 cm over the edge of the pot. If the shoots are not cut back enough, the fuchsia will become unsightly on the inside.

Pruning standing fuchsia varieties

For standing varieties, pruning can give the plants the desired shape. Use the thick main shoots as a guide for the shape and thus where to cut. These form the basic framework of your fuchsia and thus largely determine the later shape. For example, if you want to achieve a bent main branch, this should be cut off after a strong side shoot. Opposite side shoots should removed so that the main branch continues in a bend through the uncut side shoot. Depending on the natural growth habit and the chosen pruning method, fuchsias can become slender and tall or rounded in shape.

Pruning fuchsias: Special shapes

Your fuchsia will become a nicely branched, full bush if you shorten all of last year’s leading shoots by one to two-thirds. Here, the side shoots are shortened to one or two buds.

If you want to train your fuchsia to have a pretty, tall stem, the scissors should be wielded as follows:

• All unbranched shoots should be shortened to one or two buds
• Remove thin, branched shoots
• Leave any leaves on the trunk
• The crown can be shaped by trimming branch ends

By removing thin branches, you can encourage less crowded growth. This way, the plant is less prone to fungal diseases, and leaves closer to the main stem can still get enough sun.

When pruning to form a column, the main lateral shoots of the fuchsia should be shortened to create a column shape of the desired circumference. Cut back the shoots coming off the main lateral shoots to one or two pairs of buds.

In the event of radical pruning to help bare, poorly grown fuchsias to shine again, you can also cut into old wooden stems. However, leave at least one pair of buds per shoot so that the shoot can resprout.

After spring pruning, fuchsias should be watered thoroughly. After that, watering sparsely until new shoots appear.

Repotting fuchsias

Aside from pruning, spring is an equally good time for repotting your fuchsias. The most important thing here is to replace the spent soil. Proceed as follows when repotting fuchsias:

• Remove plant from pot
• Carefully remove soil with your fingers
• Remove injured and dead roots
• Rinse off soil residue under running water
• Repot fuchsia in the same pot with fresh soil

Only repot into a larger pot if your fuchsia has grown so large that the old pot is too small for it.

Note: If the new shoots still have soft ends after the formation of three pairs of leaves, your fuchsias will grow branched and rich in flowers. For this, the soft shoot tip should be cut off above the last bud to encourage the shoot to grow in a branched manner. This can be repeated over and over again if desired, but each time will significantly delay flowering.