Potatoes in the Garden (2024)

Potatoes in the Garden (1)

Potatoes prefer a sunny location, long growing season, and fertile, well-drained soil for best yields. Plant potato seed pieces directly in the garden 14-21 days before the last frost date. For earlier maturity, plant potatoes through a black plastic mulch. Side dress with additional nitrogen fertilizer to help grow a large plant.

Irrigation should be deep and frequent. Organic mulches help conserve water, reduce weeding, and keep the soil cool during tuber growth. Control insect and diseases throughout the year. Harvest potatoes as soon as tubers begin forming (new potatoes) or as they mature. Dig storage potatoes after the vines have died, cure them for 2-3 weeks, and then store the tubers in the dark at 40-45ºF.

Recommended Varieties

Potatoes are categorized by maturity class (early, mid-season or late), use (baking, frying, boiling), or tuber skin characteristics (russet, smooth, or colored). When selecting varieties, consider your growing environment, primary use, and how much space you have available to grow the plants. Most varieties grow well in Utah but all are not available. Most garden centers and nurseries carry varieties that produce high quality, productive seed tubers adapted to local conditions.

Skin Type Suggested Varieties
Russet Butte, Gem Russet, Ranger Russet, Russet Burbank
Smooth Chipeta, Katahdin, Kennebec, Yukon Gold
Colored All Blue, Caribe (blue), Cranberry Red, Red Norland, Red Pontiac, Rose Finn,Viking,

How to Grow

Soil

Soil Potatoes prefer organic, rich, well-drained, sandy soil for best growth. Most soils in Utah will grow potatoes provided they are well drained and fertile.

Soil Preparation

Before planting, determine fertilizer needs with a soil test and then follow the recommendations given with the test report. If fertilizer applications are warranted, work the fertilizer into the top 6 inches of soil. If you fertilize with compost, apply no more than 1 inch of well-composted organic matter per 100 square feet of garden area.

Plants

Potatoes are grown primarily from whole or partial seed tubers. When buying seed tubers, ask for certified seed as this will help reduce the potential for introducing disease into the garden. If the seed tuber is particularly large, it can be cut into smaller pieces. When cutting, make sure the seed piece weighs at least 2 ounces and has one or more “eyes.” You will need 8-10 pounds of seed potatoes for every 100 feet of planted row. Tubers should be planted in the garden 2-3 weeks before the last frost.

Planting and Spacing

Plant potato seed pieces 4-6 inches deep and 10-12 inches apart in the row. Space the rows 30-36 inches apart. Potato should be planted when soils are at least 50ºF. Generally, soil is hilled or mounded around the plants as they grow. Hills provide room for the tubers to develop, provide added soil drainage, and minimize tuber greening later in the year. It is best to hill around the plants within 4 weeks of planting.

Mulches

For very early potatoes, some gardeners grow potatoes under black plastic mulch. Plastic mulches warm the soil, reduce weeding, allow earlier planting and maturity, and help conserve water. You can also apply a thick layer of organic mulch such as grass clippings, straw, or newspapers around the plants. These “mulched” potatoes are planted 10-12 inches apart in the row with rows 30-36 inches apart but are planted only 1-2 inches deep. After planting, cover with 4-6 inches of mulch, adding additional mulch throughout the year as settling or decomposition occurs. Organic mulches also help conserve water, control weeds, and maintain a more uniform temperature. Tubers are easy to harvest since many are above the soil.

Water

Potatoes require good soil moisture levels throughout the year, so apply 1-2 inches per week. Most of the water used by the plants is taken up from the top foot of soil. Use drip irrigation if possible. Mulch around the plant will conserve soil moisture. Irrigate so that moisture goes deeply into the soil. Irregular watering (over or under) can cause abnormal tuber growth like knobs and cracks. Near the end of summer when the plants begin to yellow and the leaves start dying, reduce the amount of water applied. Wet conditions late in the year contribute to tuber rot in storage.

Fertilization

Avoid heavy fertilization of potatoes which encourages excessive foliage growth and delays tuber growth. In addition to the pre-plant fertilizer, side dress with nitrogen (21-0-0) applying ½ pounds per 100 square feet of planted area 6 weeks after they emerge. Place the fertilizer to the side of the plants and irrigate it into the soil.

Problems

Weeds

Plastic and organic mulches effectively control weeds. Higher density plant spacing and good plant growth will also smother weeds. Regularly mounding soil around the plants buries small weeds, loosens and aerates the soil, and reduces tuber greening. Shallow cultivation will help avoid root and tuber damage.

Insects and Diseases

Insects Identification Control
Colorado Potato Beetle Yellow and black striped beetle, (½ inch long;¼ inch wide). Larvae are reddish orange, with black spots on each side. Yellow egg clusters are found under the leaves. Larval feeding defoliates the plants. Hand pick adults from the plants and rub out egg masses as they appear.Beetles are quite resistance to insecticides so use chemicals sparingly.
Flea Beetles Small, shiny black beetles that feed on seedlings. Adults chew tiny holes in leaves of young plants. Beetle feeding reduces plant vigor and decreases yield. Control beetles with appropriate insecticides at planting or after seedlings have emerged from the soil.
Aphids Green or black soft-bodied insects that feed on underside of leaves. Aphids transmit virus diseases that affect the plant growth. Leaves become crinkled and curled. Use insecticidal soaps, appropriate insecticides, or strong water stream to dislodge insects.
Diseases Symptoms Control
Early Blight Brown to black “target” spots on leaves. Dark area fades to a normal green giving it a bull’s eye look. Lower, older leaves are infected first. They droop and dry as the disease progresses. If spots are numerous, leaves will die. Maintain good fertility and manage water carefully by avoid late day irrigations. Let soil dry between irrigations. Apply fungicide after proper disease identification.
Late Blight Brown or black water-soaked spots on leaves and stems that enlarge rapidly. Under wet conditions, a white mold may appear at the lesion edge. Cool, wet conditions favor disease development and spread. Use certified disease-free seed. Irrigate early in the day to allow leaf drying. Apply appropriate fungicide after proper disease identification.
Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt Diseases Leaves on bottom of plants wilt first and plants often die. Look for vascular discoloration, slime formation, or gummy exudates visible on or in stems. Diseases are caused by different pathogens. Identify the causal disease. Plant resistant varieties if available. Crop rotation and soil solarization can help reduce wilt diseases.
Disorders Symptoms Control
Tuber Greening Exposure of tubers to light in garden or storage will cause the formation of green pigments on the tuber. The chemicals produced (solanin) tastes bitter after being cooked. Keep tubers covered with soil in garden. Store in a dark, cool place. A small amount of green can be cut away but discard very green tubers.
Tuber Disorders Rough skins; cracking; small, irregular tuber shapes. Primarily caused by wet/dry soils or high soil temperatures. Maintain uniform moisture conditions. Mulch heavily to regulate soil water and temperature.

Harvest and Storage

Potatoes can be harvested as soon as they begin forming (new potatoes) or as they mature.

Determine the size of the tubers by digging into the side of the hills. Consume new potatoes quickly as they have thin skins and dry out rapidly. For storage potatoes, dig them after the vines have died, the tubers are full sized, and the skins are mature. Mature potato skins are difficult to remove when rubbed. Allow the soil to dry, brush it off, and do not wash the tubers until ready to use. Cure the tubers at 55-60ºF with high humidity for 2-3 weeks after harvest. Curing helps heal any bruises or wounds that occur during harvest.

After curing, store tubers in the dark at 40-45ºF throughout the winter. Good air circulation will reduce rotting and sprouting. Do not store potatoes with apples or pears as the ethylene fruit produces will cause the tubers to sprout.

Productivity

Plant 50 feet of row per person for fresh use and an additional 50 feet for storage. Expect about 75- 100 lbs of tubers per 100 feet of row.

Nutrition

Potatoes are very nutritious, low in calories with many different minerals and vitamins, and are an excellent source of starch.

Frequently Asked Questions

I generally have low yields with lots of small, odd-shaped tubers. What is the problem?

It is most likely due to unfavorable weather conditions (soils above 90ºF). Tuber set and fill is inhibited by high temperatures. Heavy mulching and good water management can help reduce soil temperatures and thus increase tuberization.

On some of my potato plants, the leaves are turning yellow and the plants are no longer growing. What is wrong?

Potatoes with these symptoms may be infected with one of several wilt diseases. Potatoes can be infected with a variety of diseases so proper identification is critical. Practice crop rotation, use certified seed, make sure you are not over-watering, maintain proper soil fertility, and plant a few more plants if you have had problems in the past.

I have a bunch of tubers from last year that are sprouting. Can I plant these in place of buying new seed potatoes?

No, saving your own seed potatoes leads to a buildup of viruses and diseases that eventually will cause serious problems in the garden. Whenever possible, purchase and plant certified seed to help control many of the problem diseases potatoes experience. The only exception would be if the variety is an heirloom that is not available from some other source.

Published May 2020
Utah State University Extension
Peer-reviewed fact sheet

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Authors

Daniel Drost, Vegetable Specialist

Daniel Drost

Vegetable Specialist

PSC Dept

Phone: (435) 797-2258

Email: dan.drost@usu.edu

Office Location: AGRS 329 / USU Campus

Potatoes in the Garden (2024)

FAQs

What month do you plant potatoes? ›

When to Plant Potatoes. Potatoes grow best during cooler weather. Plant potatoes 2-4 weeks before the last frost in the spring, when the soil temperature is at least 40 degrees F. In warm climates, potatoes are planted from January to March and harvested between March and June.

How long does it take potatoes to grow in a garden? ›

Generally, new potatoes will be present by day 60; they will be small and fragile. You can take a few if you just can't wait any longer!! Most varieties will have good-sized tubers that are ready to harvest by 90 days.

How do you know when potatoes are ready to harvest? ›

Let the potato plants and the weather tell you when to harvest them. Wait until the tops of the vines have completely died before you begin harvesting. When the vines are dead, it is a sure sign the potatoes have finished growing and are ready to be harvested.

Should I plant potatoes in my garden? ›

So it should come as no surprise that it's just as easy to skip the produce section and start growing potatoes in your own yard. All you need is a sunny space to grow them, a steady supply of water, and seed potatoes (the sprouted portion of a potato that you plant in the ground).

Do potatoes need full sun or shade? ›

Potatoes always do best in full sun. They are aggressively rooting plants, and we find that they will produce the best crop when planted in a light, loose, well-drained soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil with a PH of 5.0 to 7.0.

What is the best companion plant for potatoes? ›

13 Companion Plants to Grow Alongside Potatoes
  • Alyssum. Alyssum is a ground-cover flower that attracts beneficial insects and serves as a natural mulch to retain soil moisture and deter weeds.
  • Cabbage family plants. ...
  • Corn. ...
  • Chives. ...
  • Cilantro. ...
  • Flax. ...
  • Horseradish. ...
  • Leeks.
Jun 7, 2021

Are potatoes ready to dig when they flower? ›

Flowering just means that the vines are mature enough and have enough leaf area to start forming tubers. It doesn't mean the tubers are ready to harvest. Until they reach mature size, your potatoes should be watered regularly though the summer, from 1 to 3 inches of water per week, as needed.

How many potatoes will one plant produce? ›

A single plant will produce, at a minimum, three or four pounds of potatoes, and a single seed potato will produce four or five plants.

How long do you let potatoes grow before you pick them? ›

Full-sized potatoes are usually ready about 120 days from planting. Experienced gardeners sometimes judge the progress of the crop by watching for a distinctive bulging of the soil around the stem of the plant. As the potato tubers grow, the soil is displaced and a soil mound forms.

How long after potatoes flower Are they ready? ›

Most early potato varieties will produce flowers in June, quite pretty ones too. Many are white, but they come in purple and pink too. Once the flowers start to go over, or the unopened flower buds drop, you know that the potatoes are ready to harvest. This will take anywhere from eight to twelve weeks after planting.

When should I stop watering my potato plants? ›

Stop watering your potato plants about 2-3 weeks before harvest, or when you first see the foliage on the plants starting to turn yellow. Make sure to harvest your potatoes on a dry day when the soil is dry—harvesting potatoes when wet or damp can cause the potatoes to rot more easily in storage.

What happens if you harvest your potatoes too early? ›

Dig potatoes too early, and you'll harvest a measly crop of minuscule tubers. You'll also risk stressing the plant and its precious root system, so although you could try replanting it, the plant might not thrive. Wait too long, and your potatoes may get damaged by frost, or begin to sprout, crack or rot underground.

Do potatoes grow better in pots or in the ground? ›

Potatoes grown directly into the ground will provide a better yield by weight than those grown in containers.

Do potatoes spread when planted? ›

In most climates where the soil freezes, potatoes grow as an annual. In climates where the soil never freezes, a potato plant could be thought of as a perennial that spreads via the tubers, if they are left in the soil.

Can you plant potatoes on top of soil? ›

To plant seed potatoes in straw, prepare an in-ground garden bed or a raised bed for planting. Then, nestle each piece of seed potato down into the soil by no more than an inch or so. Some gardeners who plant seed potatoes in straw don't even bury them at all; they simply toss the pieces on top of the soil.

What should potatoes not be planted by? ›

Potatoes are members of the nightshade family, so avoid planting potatoes near any other nightshade family members such as peppers, tomatoes, tomatillos, eggplant, and okra. And, avoid planting potatoes is the same location where nightshade plants have recently been grown.

Do potatoes need raised beds? ›

The fact is, potatoes do exceptionally well in raised beds, mainly because of the control over the soil content. So, if space isn't an issue for you, then yes, you should be growing potatoes in your raised beds.

How much space do potatoes need to grow? ›

Plant seed pieces 10 to 12 inches apart and cover in a furrow between 1 and 3 inches deep. Space rows 24 to 36 inches apart. The 24 inch spacing is often beneficial because the plants shade the soil and prevent high soil temperatures that inhibit tuber development.

What do potatoes like to grow next to? ›

Vegetables as potato companion plants

Among the good potato companion plants are crops in the cabbage family. Growing broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kale, which all have shallow root systems, means they won't compete for the space or nutrients that deep-rooted potatoes will need.

What vegetables should not be planted with potatoes? ›

Avoid planting potatoes near asparagus, Brassicas, carrots, cucumber, kohlrabi, melons, parsnips, rutabaga, squash, sunflower, and turnips. Radish – Plant radishes near beans, beets, celeriac, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, mint, parsnip, peas, spinach, squash, and tomatoes.

What do you plant in plot after potatoes? ›

When nutrients are replenished with a balanced organic fertiliser, a potato plot often makes a great place to grow cabbage family crops for fall like cabbage, collards or kale. Leeks or scallions are excellent choices, too, though you will need to start seeds now in order to have the seedlings you need in midsummer.

Should you let potatoes flower? ›

You should allow your potatoes to flower. By harvesting after they flower, you allow the potato plant to grow to its potential. However, not all potatoes will flower or produce fruit. Whether your potatoes flower or not, the best time to harvest them is after above-ground greenery starts to turn yellow and die.

What happens if you don't dig up potatoes? ›

If you don't harvest potatoes when the plant dies back, a couple things could happen. Most likely they will rot if the soil is wet, or they'll die once the ground freezes. But if you live in a warm and dry enough climate, any tubers that survive over the winter will sprout again in the spring.

What happens if potatoes don't flower? ›

ANSWER: Don't worry if your potato plants aren't producing blooms. The flowers are not needed in order for the plants to grow delicious tubers underground. Instead, the blossoms are linked to production of the small, green above-ground fruits that resemble tomatoes.

When to buy seed potatoes for 2022? ›

We publish our planned stock of certified seed potatoes every autumn so you can plan ahead for the following year – as of November 2021 we have 49 varieties listed! A few varieties should arrive in December 2021 and the rest should arrive in early January 2022.

Can I plant potatoes in July? ›

And July is time enough to plant some late potatoes, beans and summer squash. For potatoes, one big advantage of planting late in the season is that your crops will probably miss attacks by the Colorado potato beetle (Leptinotarsa decemlineata), which is usually most active in the spring.

Can I grow potatoes in winter? ›

Potatoes are a great winter-early spring crop and at this time of the year you will find seed potatoes available in local garden centers and on-line. And there's a potato planting solution for any sized garden! They can be planted in the ground in rows or in mounds, in containers, in potato bags, or in potato towers.

Do you plant potatoes in the spring or fall? ›

It's time to plant potatoes or “taters” as Southerners say. Unlike many spring vegetables, potatoes can be planted as early as four weeks prior to the last frost of the season.

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