A well-made pesto is a thing of beauty: Fresh, green, cheesy, and nutty, this no-cook sauce has it all, and goes with just about everything. Slather thick pesto on good bread, toss a thinner version with pasta, use it as a crudité dip, or, heck, just eat it with a spoon—in the summertime, we're all about eating as much pesto as we can. But if you've ever suffered the disappointment of a murky brown pesto, or dug into a plate of linguine with pesto, only to find its flavor has fallen flat, then you know: There are a few common mistakes to avoid when making pesto. Bon Appétit senior food editor Dawn Perry and assistant food editor Claire Saffitz know a thing or two about how to take a your version from "meh" to "more, please." Here's their best advice for making a knockout pesto.
1. <del>Use All of the Basil</del>
We love the fresh, sweet taste of basil, and when our plants explode with the stuff all summer long, it's tempting to use it in batch after batch of pesto. But why should basil have all the fun, when there are so many other herbs and greens having their moment in the garden? Parsley and cilantro are great substitutes for the classic, as are arugula and kale. A little mix-and-match is always a good idea, but that said, don't go crazy with all strong flavors. Spicy arugula, bitter kale, and anise-flavored tarragon shouldn't all be in the same pesto. Choose one big, bold flavor, and fill out the rest with something milder, like parsley. Follow this rule of thumb: If you can eat it in a salad, you can probably use it to make a pesto.
2. <del>You Have to Eat a Pound of Dirt Before You Die</del>
A little dirt never hurt anyone—and besides, who has time to wash and dry all of those pesky greens… right? Hold it right there. "There's nothing worse than a sandy pasta sauce," says Perry, and we're inclined to agree. Whatever greens you're using, be sure to rinse them under cool water (warm water will wilt them), then thoroughly pat them dry with a clean tea towel, or, better yet, use a salad spinner.
3. <del>Be Gone, Vampires!</del>
Love garlic? Great. Just be sure that the amount of garlic you're using doesn't overpower the rest of the sauce. You should be able to taste every element of the pesto, from the greens to the olive oil and nuts. Start with a small amount of garlic, and add more if the sauce needs a little zip. Remember: You can always add more, but you can't take any out.
4. <del>It Ain't a Pesto Without Pine Nuts</del>
Have you seen the price of pine nuts? They're crazy-expensive! Sure, there's a lot to love about pine nuts (So buttery! So creamy!), but the sticker shock we get after buying a pound is enough to send us running straight for the pecans, walnuts, and almonds. That's not saying you can never use pine nuts, of course, but with so many other tasty nuts, why not mix things up? Kale is great with almonds, and sweet pecans would be a fine match for spicy arugula.
5. <del>Raw is Best</del>
Just because pesto is technically a no-cook sauce doesn't mean you're off the hook entirely. For a truly dynamo pesto with tons of flavor, you must (must!) roast the nuts before using them in a pesto. Cool them completely before processing, or they'll turn into a gummy paste.
6. <del>Let the Machine Do all the Work
</del>
The fastest way to whip up a pesto is in a food processor, but that doesn't mean you can just dump everything in and start mixing. Saffitz explains that this lazy method will result in a concrete-like, oily paste. The tender greens get bruised and banged-up, and the nuts release too many oils, turning to nut butter rather than a pleasantly chunky sauce. Use a knife to do initial rough chops of all of your ingredients, and rely on the processor to merely mix together the greens, nuts, and olive oil. As for the cheese? Grate it on the fine edge of a box grater, or with a Microplane, and mix it in by hand once everything else has been combined.
7. <del>Let's Make it Low-Fat!</del>
We applaud efforts for cleaner, lighter eating (we even do it ourselves, sometimes). But a pesto is no place for restraint. The point of a pesto is about plenty of olive oil, nuts, and cheese. The point of a pesto is, well, fat. Let pesto be its glorious, tasty self, and don't even think about cutting it with water.
8. <del>Any Cheese Will Do</del>
It's up to you if you want to use Pecorino Romano or classic Parmesan, but there is one rule you must follow: Pestos need hard, salty, aged cheeses. Creamy fresh fromage, like chèvre, doesn't combine well, and makes for a gloopy sauce. Besides, Saffitz says, a pesto should be a little chunky, not uniformly smooth. A little texture is key.
9. <del>It Can Live on the Counter</del>
Pesto oxidizes, or turns brown when exposed to the air, quickly. To avoid this unsightly issue, cover your pesto with a film of plastic wrap set directly on top of the sauce, then refrigerate until you're ready to use it. It also freezes beautifully.
Put all of these tips to good use with a classic: Ligurian Pesto with Spaghetti
