Make a Corset - Patterns & Materials - Corset Training (2024)

Corset Patterns

Now, I won’t be covering how to make a corset pattern in this post; Laughing Moon are a good make, or Historical Patterns – there’s a range of corset patterns on Vena Cava but a quick search on the net brings up lots more. Having said that, making your own is not a difficult task; my first corset was based on a pattern I made by putting on a tight vest and covering my torso in duct tape. You need a friend’s help if you’re attempting this! I then cut down the middle front and back and cut one of the sides into pattern pieces. I then drew round them onto tracing paper and altered them to make the waist thinner and cut the back piece to allow for the gap at the laces. I had no previous experience making corsets and here’s how they came out –

The red lines are the duct tape piece shapes, then I made the above mentioned modifications and shortened the waist line– as shown by the blue lines.

Gathering Your Materials

Now, the lining must (should) be coutil! ‘What’s that?’ you ask, well it’s a fabric invented purely for making corsets, it doesn’t stretch over time like other fabrics, which would ruin your perfectly fitting corset. It can be very expensive but you’ll only need half a meter – less if you’re careful, so there’s no excuse for using a cheap substitute. It comes in black and white, but if you feel the need to dye it this can be done easily as it’s usually 100% cotton or an 80% cotton 20% polyester mix. A lower cotton percentage stops the skin breathing. Coutil does come in different qualities so if you’re buying in a store give it a good feel and a bit of a tug; it should be stiff and resist stretching.

That said here’s the full list of materials needed for a single corset:

+ Half meter of coutil.

+ Half meter of outer fabric.

+ 3 or 4 reels of unbreakable thread in a colour matching your outer fabric.

+ An awl or other pointed implement for making holes in fabric without cutting the threads. A fine pointed metal kebab skewer works well.

+ 1 steel busk, this is the front opening mechanism with 2 parts that lock together via loops and knobs (no snigg*ring please). This needs to be about an inch shorter than the front join of the corset. Read my post ‘Pick your Shape’ for information on the correct length busk for your torso.

+ Steel bones; spiral steel for sides, sprung steel for front and back. There should be one of these for each join between pattern pieces, cut to a size half inch shorter than the join length; they can be bought in various pre-cut sizes (make sure u have one per join for both sides of the corset – but not for both lining and outer layers of fabric mind).

+ Steel lacing bones. These are steel bones with holes punched in them; again get them half inch shorter then the edge of the back pattern piece where the laces will attach, you need 2 per corset.

+ Eyelets (also called grommets) – one per lacing bone hole. You’ll need to buy a packet with the little plastic setting tool unless you happen to have the proper hand tool – which makes it soooo much easier! So maybe invest in one for your second corset.

+ Bone casing – 2 -3 meters (measure all your joints for exact amount). This is a tubular ribbon you stitch on and slide your bones into.

+ Bias tape in a colour matching your outer fabric – 2 meters. This is a folded ribbon-like strip of material ‘cut on the cross’ (across the direction of the fabric weave). It’s best to go into your local sewing store and ask for it by name if you’re not sure what it is, make sure to take your fabric along to match it as it will edge the top and bottom of your corset.

+ Petersham ribbon or twill tape – 1 meter. This is your waist tape, its goes on the inside and is optional but gives the waist line that stunning angular curve. Leave it out for a more natural look. Again go into a sewing shop for this, get black or white to match your lining.

+ Laces! Of course. These need to be at least 3 meters long and very sturdy.