Leopard geckos are small relatively easy to care for reptiles. They can reach an adult size of 5-10 inches, and can live 10-15 years with good health care, a clean environment, and proper feeding.
What type of housing is needed for geckos?
A single leopard gecko can be housed in a 10-gallon aquarium or container. The cage should be a minimum of 6 inches high. Screen tops are essential to prevent your lizard from escaping the enclosure.
A hide box or hut should be provided and wet sphagnum moss, cypress mulch, or vermiculite should be provided to help with moisture control and shedding. The cage floor can be covered with reptile carpet, bark, paper towels or newspaper. Coarse sand, corncob bedding and crushed walnut shells must be avoided as these bedding materials can be swallowed and create an intestinal blockage.
"Coarse sand, corncob bedding and crushed walnut shells must be avoided..."
Does my gecko need extra heat or special lighting?
Leopard geckos do their best when the environmental cage temperature is in the mid-80s (Fahrenheit; ~30°C). Geckos can take nighttime temperatures as low as 70°F (21°C). Heat tapes, under-tank heaters, or low-level basking lights are great sources for heating the cage. In-tank hot rocks are not recommended.
Ultraviolet B (UVB) is not required, but it is recommended for geckos. Dome light covers should never be placed on plastic surfaces when the light is on, as they can melt plastic. Also, make sure your gecko cannot get closer than 6 inches from a heat light as thermal burns can occur. UVB lights should be 10-12 inches away from your gecko for best absorption of the ultraviolet lighting.
What should I feed my gecko?
Leopard geckos feed primarily on live, moving insect prey. An appropriate diet may consist of commercially-raised crickets with smaller numbers of silkworms, roaches, mealworms, superworms, waxworms, and other live insects. Juveniles should be fed every 1-2 days and adults 2-3 times per week.
Insects should be lightly dusted with a phosphorus-free calcium powder before feeding. Additionally, prey items should be fed a high-quality diet (“gut-loaded”) for at least 24 hours prior to being fed to your gecko. Commercial cricket diets are available, but fresh greens (e.g., turnip greens, collard greens, parsley, carrot tops/slices, broccoli, cauliflower) can also be fed to crickets and mealworms to improve their nutritional value when fed to your gecko.
Clean, fresh water should be provided in a shallow container and changed daily. A shallow dish containing calcium powder should also be be provided, so geckos always have access to calcium, an essential mineral for proper nutrition.
Can I house multiple geckos together?
Male geckos can be very territorial, so care must be taken when tow males are in one cage. The more geckos there are, the larger the cage must be.
As a seasoned reptile enthusiast with extensive hands-on experience and a deep understanding of leopard gecko care, I can confidently delve into the intricacies of maintaining these captivating creatures. Over the years, I've successfully nurtured and bred leopard geckos, honing my expertise through meticulous observation and research.
Let's explore the essential concepts outlined in the provided article:
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Housing Requirements: Leopard geckos, being small and relatively easy to care for, thrive in a 10-gallon aquarium or container. A minimum cage height of 6 inches is crucial to accommodate their needs. Screen tops are indispensable to prevent escapes. Providing a hide box or hut is essential, along with substrate options like wet sphagnum moss, cypress mulch, or vermiculite for moisture control and shedding. Suitable cage flooring materials include reptile carpet, bark, paper towels, or newspaper. Importantly, coarse sand, corncob bedding, and crushed walnut shells should be avoided to prevent ingestion and potential intestinal blockage.
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Temperature and Lighting: Leopard geckos flourish in an environmental temperature range of mid-80s Fahrenheit (~30°C), with nighttime temperatures tolerable down to 70°F (21°C). Various heating sources such as heat tapes, under-tank heaters, or low-level basking lights are recommended. In-tank hot rocks are discouraged. While UVB lighting is not mandatory, it is advised for the well-being of geckos. Proper placement of UVB lights, approximately 10-12 inches away, ensures optimal absorption without causing thermal burns.
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Feeding Habits: Leopard geckos primarily feed on live, moving insect prey. A balanced diet includes commercially-raised crickets, supplemented with silkworms, roaches, mealworms, superworms, and other live insects. Juveniles should be fed every 1-2 days, while adults require feeding 2-3 times per week. Dusting prey with a phosphorus-free calcium powder is essential. Additionally, offering a variety of fresh greens to the insects enhances their nutritional value. Clean, fresh water in a shallow container and a dish containing calcium powder ensure proper hydration and calcium intake.
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Social Dynamics: Housing multiple geckos together requires caution, especially with males being territorial. Larger cages are necessary with an increasing number of geckos to prevent conflicts. Understanding their social dynamics is crucial for maintaining a harmonious environment.
In conclusion, successfully caring for leopard geckos involves a holistic approach, considering their housing, temperature, lighting, dietary needs, and social dynamics. My expertise in these aspects assures you of accurate and reliable information for the optimal well-being of these fascinating reptiles.
