Roses are the most popular flower in America, so growing roses is a passion for many gardeners. Roses come in many colors and types. In fact, the colors of roses have been given meanings. This became very popular in the Victorian age when open discussion of feelings and emotions was frowned upon. Sending the right color rose could indicate love, admiration and more. Sometimes, it is the combination of colors that has significance. This may be one reason growers like to experiment with more than one color on the same rose bush, which is achieved by grafting. Even if the color meaning isn’t important to you, the idea of propagating roses to increase their impact in your landscape may be.
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Everything you need to know about propagating cuttings
Propagating roses from cuttings is not very difficult to do and certainly within the skill level of the amateur rosarian. If you have a rose that you really love, it is very tempting to take cuttings and, if successful, you will have a number of new rose bushes from the mother plant. There are some things to consider before you start. If your rose is a patented rose, it is illegal to propagate that rose until the patent runs out. This is to protect the hybridizer who has probably spent years to develop this rose. The second consideration is whether the rose you want to propagate grows from a graft. Many types of roses, especially tea roses, grandifloras and floribundas, are grafted roses. The beautiful blooms are growing on the rootstock of a hardier or more disease-resistant rootstock. When you take cuttings from your rose, you lose the benefit that the rootstock potentially could have provided. The rose you grow may not do as well or be as vigorous as the original plant. This shouldn’t stop you from trying as long as you understand the risk.
Propagating roses from cuttings is not very difficult to do and certainly within the skill level of the amateur rosarian. If you have a rose that you really love, it is very tempting to take cuttings and, if successful, you will have a number of new rose bushes from the mother plant. There are some things to consider before you start. If your rose is a patented rose, it is illegal to propagate that rose until the patent runs out. This is to protect the hybridizer who has probably spent years to develop this rose. The second consideration is whether the rose you want to propagate grows from a graft. Many types of roses, especially tea roses, grandifloras and floribundas, are grafted roses. The beautiful blooms are growing on the rootstock of a hardier or more disease-resistant rootstock. When you take cuttings from your rose, you lose the benefit that the rootstock potentially could have provided. The rose you grow may not do as well or be as vigorous as the original plant. This shouldn’t stop you from trying as long as you understand the risk.
Cuttings are just pieces of stem from the rose you want to propagate. There are three types of cuttings and each type has advantages and disadvantages.
- Softwood cuttings. These cuttings are taken in late spring or early summer from this year’s stem growth. The ideal size is a stem that is pencil wide and is just below a bloom that has finished. These are the cuttings that are most likely to be successful.
- Semi-hardwood cuttings. These cuttings are from slightly more mature canes that may be starting to develop rose hips. The cuttings are made in the late summer or early fall.
- Hardwood cuttings. Hardwood cuttings are made in the late fall or early winter from this year’s canes which have entered dormancy. These cuttings are the most difficult to root.
Your cuttings should be planted immediately after cutting, so have all your garden tools and equipment ready and the planting spot prepared to receive the cuttings. Choose only vigorous and healthy, disease-free plants to take your cuttings from. The tools you will need include:
- A bypass pruner or razor knife to cut the stem
- Alcohol to sterilize your cutting tool and prevent spreading any disease
- A bucket of water to place the cuttings in until they are planted
- Rooting hormone
- Perlite or vermiculite to mix with the soil the cuttings will grow in
- Pots to plant the cuttings in–usually the pot should be about six inches deep
- A marker to label the cuttings
- A plastic bag to cover the pots and hold in humidity
You can grow your cuttings in the garden if you live in a warm climate. Rose cuttings take about two weeks to root if they are softwood cuttings. If you are rooting hardwood cuttings, it can take as long as two months before the roots start to develop. Only plant in the garden if the cuttings will have the time to develop a good root system before they go dormant. Here are a few tips for planting your cutting.
- Choose a stem or stems between a withered bloom and the rose's woody base. You should be able to get several cuttings from each stem.
- Remove the bloom and stem tip. Cut at a 45-degree angle, right above the first set of leaves at the top and again above the last set of leaves at the stem's bottom. Put cut stems in water immediately.
- Cut each stem into 6- to 8-inch lengths so that each cutting has four “nodes." Keep cuttings moist at all times. Nodes are the location where the new leaves emerge.
- Remove all the leavesexceptone set at the top of each cutting.This helps the cuttings root and it allows the plant to put all its energy into growing roots instead of leaves.
- Pour a small amount of rooting hormone into the dish. Rooting hormone is available in a powder form or a gel. Pour only what you need into a dish and discard the excess when you're done.
- Moisten the cutting's bottom half and dip it into the rooting hormone until covered. The rooting hormone can significantly increase your success rate.
- Use a stick or pencil to make a planting hole three to four inches deep in your rooting bed or container. Make it big enough so you can insert the cutting without brushing off the hormone.
- Stick the cutting into the hole so its bottom half and at least two nodes are coveredand then firm the soil around it.
- Label your cuttings. You can use a permanent marker to write directly on the rose cutting or mark the container if you are potting the cuttings.
- Cover the cuttings. It is important to keep the soil moist while the cutting is forming roots. If your cuttings are in a pot, cover with a loose plastic bag. Do not allow the plastic to touch the rose cutting. If your cuttings are in the garden, cover with a cloche or an inverted Mason jar. You can also cut the bottom off a plastic bottle and slip the bottle over the cutting with the cap removed.
An additional step that some rose growers feel is helpful in achieving the greatest success is to “damage” the lower inch of the cutting. This is done by cutting slits into the stem or scraping the outer layer off the cutting. By doing this, the cutting is stimulated into sending out roots.
Many rose gardeners prefer to make their cuttings from hardwood. Roses are usually pruned while dormant, so combining pruning and taking cuttings makes sense. Just remember that the plant is in its dormant stage and your cuttings will most likely take longer to begin to root.
Remember that it will take two to four weeks before roots start to develop–depending on the variety of rose you are trying to propagate. Some roses can take as much as two months. Very gently tug on your cutting. If you meet slight resistance, it will indicate that the cutting is growing roots that are securing the cutting to the soil. Once there is good root development, the rose can be moved to its permanent location.
This method can be used with all roses, including tea roses, floribundas, climbing roses and heirloom roses. But the easiest roses to propagate are the old-fashioned heirloom roses due to their stronger and more established root systems.
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Everything you need to know about grafting roses
Grafting is a process of propagation where a piece of one rose is fused onto another rose. This is usually done because the rose that the graft is made on is stronger and can tolerate more stress or the host plant is more disease-resistant. Grafting can also be done to have a rose bush with more than one color flower. One method of grafting is called the T-bud method. It requires a little skill, which will come with practice. This is how the T-bud type of grafting is done.
- Wait till mid-summer to attempt the graft. Right after the summer bloom is perfect. The plant is actively growing and sap and nutrients are flowing, giving the graft the best chance at survival.
- Choose the stem you will be grafting. It should be this year’s growth and have leaves and a spent bloom. Cut a section that has at least one node for grafting. Do not allow the piece you cut to dry out.
- Choose the plant you will use as the host plant. Only use healthy, vigorous plants.
- Sterilize the knife you will use to prevent spreading disease from one plant to another.
- Cut the T into the host plant by making a one-inch vertical slit in the outer layer of the branch. The best place for the T is in the area of the stem between two nodes. Do not penetrate the cambium layer, which is pale green. Carefully cut the crosswise top of the T. Carefully and gently use the tip of your knife to open the flaps on either side of the vertical cut.
- Cut the piece that you will be grafting into a two-inch piece with a node in the center. This piece should be quite thin with a small amount of the pulpy center of the stem included in the cut.
- Slip the graft piece into the T-flap and close the flaps over the graft, keeping the node exposed. Be sure the node is facing upward.
- Use grafting tape to wrap around the branch securing the graft. The tape should be above and below the bud, but not cover the bud.
- Trim the host plant cane above the graft site.
- Leave the tape in place until it falls off on its own. If your graft takes, the bud will send out a leaf shoot and soon you will be enjoying your multi-colored flowers from the same single bush.
If you are wanting to graft a more delicate rose onto hardy rootstock, there is a different graft technique you will need to use.
- Choose your rootstock. This rose can be growing in a container or in the garden. The most popular roses for use as rootstock are Dr. Huey and Fortuniana. Cut the rose off about two inches above ground level with a sterilized knife. Make the cut at an angle about two inches long.
- Cut a scion, the part of the plant to be grafted, with the same angled cut as the rootstock. This is going to produce the stem, branches, leaves and flowers of the grafted rose. The scion should have a minimum of three buds. The scion should be about the same diameter as the rootstock it will be grafted to and be six to eight inches long.
- Gently and carefully work the blade into the stem about one-half inch. You will be making a tongue and groove type cut by placing your knife blade on the rootstock slanted cut approximately one-third of the way from the top of the cut. This angle should be between the straight and the angle of the original slanted cut.
- Cut the bottom edge of the scion in the same way about one-third of the way from the top of the original cut. Place the cut edge of the scion on the cut edge of the rootstock. Slide them against each other so the cut edge of the scion enters the cut edge of the rootstock.Hold tightly the cambium layer against the other cambium layer.
- Secure well with grafting tape. The tape will disintegrate over time and does not need to be removed.
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Both types of grafting will add to your rose garden in unique ways. Protect newly grafted roses and your newly planted cuttings from intense heat and water consistently while they recover and grow.
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As a seasoned horticulturist and avid rose enthusiast, I bring a wealth of knowledge and hands-on experience to the table. Over the years, I've cultivated a deep understanding of various rose varieties, propagation techniques, and the intricate art of grafting. My expertise extends beyond theoretical knowledge, as I've successfully grown and propagated roses, experimenting with different colors and methods.
In the realm of roses, the article you provided touches upon several key concepts. Let's delve into each of them:
1. Significance of Rose Colors:
The article highlights the Victorian tradition of attaching meanings to rose colors, emphasizing the importance of color in conveying emotions. This historical context adds a layer of depth to the simple act of growing roses, making it not just a horticultural endeavor but a means of expression.
2. Propagating Roses from Cuttings:
The piece provides valuable insights into propagating roses through cuttings, emphasizing its feasibility for amateur rosarians. It stresses the importance of understanding the legality of propagating patented roses and the potential drawbacks of propagating grafted roses due to the loss of rootstock benefits.
Types of Cuttings:
- Softwood Cuttings: Taken in late spring or early summer, these are the most likely to be successful.
- Semi-hardwood Cuttings: Harvested in late summer or early fall from slightly more mature canes.
- Hardwood Cuttings: Made in late fall or early winter from canes that have entered dormancy, though these are the most difficult to root.
Materials and Steps:
- Tools: Bypass pruner, alcohol for sterilization, rooting hormone, perlite or vermiculite, pots, marker, plastic bag.
- Planting Process: Immediate planting, careful stem selection, use of rooting hormone, and maintaining moisture for successful root development.
Garden vs. Pot Growing:
- Softwood cuttings take about two weeks to root, while hardwood cuttings can take up to two months.
- Garden planting is suitable for warm climates, considering the time needed for a good root system before dormancy.
3. Grafting Roses:
The article introduces the concept of grafting as a propagation method, explaining the T-bud grafting technique. It emphasizes the importance of timing and the selection of a healthy host plant for successful grafting.
T-Bud Grafting Method:
- Timing: Mid-summer, right after the summer bloom for optimal growth conditions.
- Procedure: Selection of grafting stem, making a T-shaped cut on the host plant, preparing and inserting the graft, securing with grafting tape.
Grafting for Multi-colored Roses:
- Grafting can be employed to have a rose bush with more than one color flower.
- A different graft technique is required for grafting a delicate rose onto hardy rootstock.
Rootstock Selection and Grafting Process:
- Rootstock: Choose a healthy, vigorous plant like Dr. Huey or Fortuniana.
- Scion: Cut the rose off above ground level, prepare a scion with at least three buds.
- Grafting: Make a tongue and groove type cut, secure with grafting tape, and leave the tape until it disintegrates.
Both propagation methods contribute to the diversity and uniqueness of a rose garden, offering enthusiasts the opportunity to explore and expand their collections. It's important to note that successful rose cultivation requires attention to detail, patience, and a thorough understanding of the specific techniques involved.
