How to Make Your Own Potting Mix for Pots and Containers (2024)

How to Make Your Own Potting Mix for Pots and Containers (1)

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DIY Potting Soil Recipe to Save Money

Robin Sweetser

How to Make Your Own Potting Mix for Pots and Containers (2)

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Learn how to make your own soilless potting mix at home! Commercial bags are pricey, really add up in costs, and also vary greatly in quality, leading to fried plants. It’s satisfying to make your own to give your plants a healthy start—and leads to fewer headaches. Here’s our basic DIY potting mixrecipe.

Containers are great for a number of reasons, namely that they’re versatile, space-saving, and allow you to be more efficient in your use of resources. If you have a small garden space or live in an apartment with a balcony or rooftop, containers are foryou.

What is PottingMix?

For containers, you’ll often read that you need to buy or make a good potting mix. But what does this mean?

Potting mix is not garden soil—which isheavy and includes sand, clay, and othercheaper additives that won’t work for containers. Some people may refer to it as potting soil, but rather, potting mix is “soilless.” It’s lighter and fluffier than ground soil to allow enough air and water for the roots for healthy root growth but also provides enough anchorage for roots. These soilless are sterile, so there is no chance of introducing pest or diseaseproblems.

Potting mix can certainly be bought in bags at garden stores. Look for “Soilless Potting Mix,” whichgenerally includesthree ingredients: 1) peat moss or coconut coirfor moisture and nutrient retention, 2) pine bark for anchorage, and 3) either perlite or vermiculite so air space so it’s light and fluffy. Some potting mix also includes fertilizer or moisture-retaining treatments. If you use a potting mix with fertilizer, you’ll need to adjust the fertilizer you provide. (Think of salted butter versus unsalted butter in a recipe!)

But many gardeners who plant a LOT of containers or raised beds or start seeds indoors will mix up their own potting mixes!For the number of containersI use in my garden, I learned long ago that it’s much cheaper to make my own potting mix and store it in an old trash can rather than pay for several big sacks of pre-made potting mix. Plus, I can customize the mix for a variety ofdifferentplants.

Before Making Your Own PottingMix

Before we go any further, note that if you only need a few small containers’ worth of potting mix, you may actually be better off buying a pre-made mix! Making your own is usually only economical on a large scale or in the long term. Here are a few things to keep in mind before creating your ownmix:

  • When it comes to any potting mix, the lighter it is, the better. Loose and porous mixtures not only make a container lighter to move, but they also transport water, fertilizer, and air to plant roots more quickly and allow for good drainage, which is important for containergardening.
  • Start with the basic recipe below and then add soil sulfur to lower the pHor lime to raise the pH, according to the needs of your plants.Both additives can typically be found at garden centers.Plants such as lettuce, Russian sage, and marigolds prefer sweet soil with a pH of about 7.5, while others are acid lovers, like ferns, asters, and strawberries. They need a pH of about 5.5 to 6.0. Here’s a list of more plants’ pH preferences.
  • If rapid drainage is needed, as is the case for cacti, succulents,and lavender, add extra sand andperlite.
  • If greater moisture retention is needed, as is the case for ferns and woodland flowers (like primrose) add extra vermiculite or coconutcoir.

My Basic Container Potting MixRecipe

Ingredients

  • 1 bucket (10quarts) coconutcoir
  • 1/2 bucket (5 quarts)perlite
  • 1/2 bucket (5 quarts)vermiculite
  • 1/2 bucket (5 quarts) screened compost or composted cowmanure
  • 2 cups finesand
  • 2 cups pelleted time-releasefertilizer

Instructions
Mix thoroughly. It makes enough to fill two 14-inch tubs or five 12-inch hanging baskets—double or triple the recipe for biggercontainers.

How to Make Your Own Potting Mix for Pots and Containers (5)

How Much Potting Mix Do INeed?

Potting mix is sold by volume (typically measured in quarts), and most pots are measured by their diameter. To translate quarts of mix into various pot sizes, use this quickreference.

Pots &Tubs

Container SizeAmount Needed
8-inch3 quarts
10-inch6 quarts
12-inch8 quarts
14-inch12 quarts
16-inch20 quarts
20-inch24 quarts
24-inch28 quarts
30-inch72 quarts
36-inch96 quarts

HangingBaskets

12-inch6 quarts
16-inch10 quarts

WindowBoxes

24 inches by 6 inches12 quarts
36 inches by 6 inches20 quarts

How to Make Your Own Potting Mix for Pots and Containers (6)

LearnMore

Here’s another potting mix recipe for seed-starting—with a video demonstration!

See our Plant Growing Guides for advice on planting and growing popular vegetables, fruits, andflowers!

Do you make your own potting mix? Share your recipe in the commentsbelow!

Container Gardening

About The Author

Robin Sweetser

Robin has been a contributor to The Old Farmer’s Almanac and the All-Seasons Garden Guide for many years. Read More from Robin Sweetser

How to Make Your Own Potting Mix for Pots and Containers (8)

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I normally make my potting soil as below and it has given good results throughout.
1/3 coir 1/3 yard compost and 1/3 garden soils or soil and sand mixed equally. I also heat soil to 60 deg C for about 20 minutes to kill unwanted Organics including seeds to sterilise. It is also advised to sterilise the vermicompost as above, if it is from unknown source. Also it is better to wash the coir 2 or 3 times to remove its acidic nature and dry it well. I also add a dash of oil cakes of neem, peanut and sesame seeds. Adding phospho-bacterium and Trichoderma viride helps in providing microbes and fungal resistance to saplings/seeds. Hope this helps.

  • Reply

My recipe for soil includes screened mulch, egg shells, coffee grounds, fireplace ashes and finely shredded paper mixed in a 50 gal drum

  • Reply

Please inform your readers of the negative environmental effects of peat moss and promote sustainable alternatives instead, like coconut coir.

Peat moss takes tens of thousands of years to form in bogs, then is dug up and put in bags for gardeners in a matter of days. That natural wetland bog environment uses the peat to filter and purify water, and thousands of animal species live in bogs. Draining and digging them up for gardeners is unsustainable and bad for the environment. The bogs will never recover fast enough for more peat to be harvested in the same area, so new bogs must be destroyed all the time. Digging up peat bogs releases massive amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere and peat moss is often exported from poor countries to be shipped to rich countries at non fair-trade prices.

Peat bogs are even known to catch on fire when they are drained, and the peat can burn underground for months on end, releasing tons of smoke, CO2 and other hazardous chemicals into the air.

Consider buying compressed coconut coir online for adding organic matter to soil. Unlike peat moss, coconut coir is completely renewable (it's made from waste coconut shells), and is pH neutral (peat moss is acidic). It ships in small cardboard boxes, which is better for the environment than giant plastic bags filled with peat.

You have a responsibility to the Earth and your readers to be informed about these types of concerns.

  • Reply

Sorry
Disagree with the anti peat moss poster
Peat is sustainable as MORE is replaced by nature each year than us harvested by man.
Yes coco is a by product of the coconut industry; the same industry that destroys more forests every year to plant more coconut trees.
Get the facts
Don't be lazy, read ALL available information; NOT JUST THE INFORMATION THAT YOU AGREE WITH

Everyone with the space to do it SHOULD BE COMPOSTING
forget about fancy silly tumblers
Just get some large used nursery pots
10-15 gallon
Grind up your material
Fill the pots 3/4 full
Stack the pots one atop the other 3-5 pots high in a shaded location
Toss some worms in the top most pot
Add water to the top pot until you see it running out of the bottom pot
Every 2-3 weeks check the moisture in the pots
Don't let them dry out
Every 1-2 months; dump the contents of each pot into another pot; this is the easiest way EVER to turn your compost

Children and old people should be able to lift a 10 gallon container 3/4 full of compost!

You should notice that the compost is breaking down

Depending on the size of the pieces that started with it should take 4-6 months to be ready to use

Handy to make a screen frame out of 1/2 square hardware cloth and some scrap wood that fits over the top of a wheel barrow to screen the finished compost

Just put the pieces that won't pass through the screen back in the pots and give this material for time to break down

I have tried every possible method of making backyard compost over 50 years

This is the absolute easiest way to make nice diy compost with minimal work

Good luck

  • Reply

No one sells real peat bog moss anymore, relax. Nearly everything sold in the us market as peat is simply composted lumber mill waste from canada. Yes it's a scam. But it's much less of a scam than pretending that mass monoculture coconut farms destroying jungle and shipping the discards 5,000 miles on diesel ships is carbon neutral.

  • Reply

Hi Thomas, yes, you still can find peat moss as an ingredient in bagged soil & potting mixes. I had to spend a little time looking last year to avoid buying soil without it.

  • Reply

I keep seeing things while looking for a good potting soil (long story short I got a bad bag and my house is full of fungus gnats that are so resilient I'm going to re-pot everything), about some soils being "hot" and that plants need to get used to it. Particularly brands like Fox Farm. I'm having trouble understand what it means that it's "hot" for plants, because I'm pretty sure they don't mean it's popular, people appear to be referring to temperature. How is a potting soil generating heat? I'm very confused.

  • Reply

Monica when some one says the soil is hot , it means it has not been fully composted, it is still creating heat during breakdown and can harm your plants , best to wait before using allowing the process to finish .

  • Reply

You are correct that the term “hot soil” isn’t referring to the popularity nor the temperature; rather, it refers to the nutrient content of the soil. I don’t believe this usage is all thatcommon, but it appears to mean soil that has a highnutrient content—even too high—which can actually be bad forplants.

Generally, any organic soil that’s meant for use in containers should do the trick. No need to get overlyfancy!

  • Reply

Too hot also refers to the fact many of the bagged soil companies package their products while it is still composting and therefore is really hot (meaning temperature). This too often creates the "hot" youre speaking of. If you pick up a bag of soil thats indoors and you open it and stick your hand down to the middle and can feel it being very warm/hot then your soil was not properly composted before it was packaged, unless of course that bag has been sitting in the hot sun for days. So that being said , "hot soil" has two explanations and both can burn your plants.

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