How to Grow Petunias: The Complete Petunia Flower Guide (2024)

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How to Grow Petunias: The Complete Petunia Flower Guide (1)

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Botanical Name

Petunia spp.

Plant Type

Flower

Sun Exposure

Full Sun

Soil pH

Slightly Acidic to Neutral

Bloom Time

Spring

Summer

Fall

Flower Color

Blue

Multicolor

Orange

Pink

Purple

Red

White

Yellow

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Planting, Growing, and Caring for Petunias

Catherine Boeckmann

How to Grow Petunias: The Complete Petunia Flower Guide (2)

Pretty petunias are one of the most popular flowers because of their exceptional blooms and long flowering period. As with most annuals, they get leggy by midsummer, so you’ll want toprune the shoots back to about half their length. See how to plant and take care of your petunias to keep themblooming.

AboutPetunias

Petunias are treated as annuals in most areas but can be grown astender perennials in Zones 9 to 11.The flowers come in many colors and patterns and bloom from spring untilfrost!

These colorful annuals can really add pop to a front lawn and are often used in borders, containers, hanging baskets, or even as seasonal groundcovers.Some even have a slight fragrance. Their height can vary from 6 inches to 18 inches, and they can spread along the ground anywhere from 18 inches to 4feet.

Types ofPetunias

Petunias are divided into different groups, mainly based on flowersize:

  1. Multiflora petunias are the most durable and prolific. They have smallerbut more abundant flowers and are ideal for summer bedding or in a mixed border (because they are more tolerant to wetweather).
  2. Grandiflora petunias have very large flowers and are best grown in containers or hanging baskets (because they are more susceptible to rain damage). These large petunias often do not fare as well in the south because they’re prone to rot during humid, hotsummers.
  3. Floribundas: Floribundas are intermediate between the grandiflora and multiflora groups. Like the multiflora varieties, they are free-flowering and produce medium-sizedblooms.
  4. Millifloras: Milliflora petunias are much smaller than any other petunias on the market. The flowers are only 1 to 1½ inches wide, but they are prolific and last allseason!
  5. Spreading or Trailing Petunias: These are low-growing and can spread as much as 3 to 4 feet. Because the flowers form along the entire length of each stem, they form a beautiful, colorful groundcover. They can be used in window boxes or hangingbaskets.

How to Grow Petunias: The Complete Petunia Flower Guide (3)

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Planting

Petunias need full sun, or they will become spindly. They don’t tend to flower wellinshade.

The soil should drain well and not stay overly wet, especially in containers. It should also be moderately fertile to promote the best growth. Amend poor soilwith finished compost prior toplanting.

When to PlantPetunias

  • It’s easiest to buy young plants from a nursery that sells petunias in flats. Look for plants that areshort and compact. Leggy petunias with tons of flowers already won’t settle in asfast.
  • If you wantto grow petunias from seed, start the seedsindoors 8 to 10 weeks before your last spring frost date. (See your local frost dates.)
  • Plant young petunias outdoors after your last spring frost date, but keep a close eye on the weather forecast and protect young plants fromlatefrosts.

How to PlantPetunias

  • Petunia seeds are very small (dust-like!) and needlots of light in order togerminate.
  • When the young plants have three leaves,plant themoutside.
  • Space the plants about 1 footapart.
  • If you’re planting petunias in containers, use a container potting mix that will drainwell.

How to Grow Petunias: The Complete Petunia Flower Guide (4)

Growing

  • Petunias are fairly heat tolerant, so you shouldn’t have to worry about watering them frequently. A thorough watering once a week should be sufficient (unless there are prolonged periods of drought in your area). Avoid watering shallowly, as this encourages shallow roots.
    • Note: The spreading types of petunias and those in containers will require more frequent watering than those planted in theground.
  • Fertilize petunias monthly with a balanced fertilizer to support their rapid growth and heavy blooming. Double-flowered cultivars enjoy a biweekly dose offertilizer.

What to Do With LeggyPetunias

  • By midsummer, most petunias tend to get leggy, producing blossoms at the tips of long, leafless stems. To keep petunias tidy and flowering, weprune the shoots back to about half their length. This will encourage more branching and moreflowers.
  • After pruning, fertilize and water the plants well to force out new growth and flowers. The plants may look raggedy at first, but they’ll rebound with more color and blooms.
    • Older garden petunia plants can be pruned prune hard (within a few inches of the base) to re-encourage vigor, especially in cooler climates, but keep the remainingleaves.
  • Remove faded, old, or dead blossoms (a practice called “deadheading”) to both improve blooms and attractiveness, especially for the larger-flowered petunias.Deadheading prevents seed pods from competing with blooms for the plant’s food supplies. Clippings can be added to acompost pile to berecycled.

Recommended Varieties

Multifloras

  • ‘Carpet Series’ is very popular.They are compact, early blooming with 1½-to 2-inch blooms that come in a wide variety of colors, and areideal forgroundcover.
  • ‘Primetime’ series stay compact and uniform, covered with 2¼-inchflowers.
  • ‘Heavenly Lavender’ is an early, compact, double, deep lavender blue with 3-inch blooms on 12-to 14-inchplants

Grandifloras

  • ‘Sugar Daddy’ (PetuniaDaddy Series), which sports purple flowers withdarkveins.
  • ‘Rose Star’ (PetuniaUltra Series), whose flowers look striped because of its rose-pink flowers with awhitecenter.

Floribundas

  • ‘Celebrity’ series petunias are compact and rain-tolerant. The flowers reach 2½ to 3 inchesacross.
  • ‘Madness’ series petunias have big, 3-inch flowers in many veined and solid colors. They are compact and bloom until frost. They bounce back well afterrain.
  • ‘Double Madness’ petunias are compact and floriferous with big, 3-inch flowers all through the summer. Like their single counterparts, ‘Double Madness’ petunias bounce back within hours of arainstorm.

Millifloras

  • ‘Fantasy’ forms neat, compactmounds.

TrailingPetunias

  • ‘Purple Wave’ was the first cultivar in the class of spreading petunias. It produces large blooms of deep rose-purple. It is tolerant of summer heat, drought, and rain damage. ‘Purple Wave’ remains under 4 inchestall.
  • ‘Wave’ series petunias are available in a multitude of colors. Most are not quite as ground-hugging as the original. They are weather-tolerant, disease resistant, andheavy-blooming.

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Pests/Diseases

Petunias have few serious insect or disease pests, though aphids and slugs can be an issue. Avoid wetting the foliage and flowers when watering to help preventdisease.

PetuniaPests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers; leaf drop; sticky “honeydew” (excretion) on leaves; sooty, black moldKnock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; inspect new plants carefully; use slow-release fertilizers; avoid excess nitrogen; encourage aphid predators such as lacewings, lady beetles/bugs, spiders
Slugs/snailsMolluskIrregular holes in leaves/flowers; slimy secretion on plants/soil; seedlings “disappear”Handpick; avoid thickbark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, in morning lift and dispose of pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container of 1/2 inch of beer or of sugar water and yeast sunk to ground level; apply 1-inch-wide strip of diatomaceous earth around plants

Flowers

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprise that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

How to Grow Petunias: The Complete Petunia Flower Guide (6)

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Comments

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I’m in my 70 and never had seaside petunias before. So thanks for the advice on how to grow and water them in a pot.

  • Reply

We are so happy to hear that our Petunia Growing Guide was useful! Hopefully, you have gorgeous petunias thissummer.

  • Reply

Earlier this season I found a beautiful Black Petunia and it was just gorgeous! It bloomed and did well for a few weeks and then it just drooped and seems to be dying. I would love to know if there is some way I could revive it.

  • Reply

Your black petunia sounds like it had a great start to the season. Drooping and/or wilting can happen for a variety of reasons, most often with either too much or too littlewater.

Petunias are rather drought and heat tolerant, and do best with a thorough watering once a week. The key is for good drainage because excessive water in the soil can cause the roots to be affected. They prefer slightly moist soil to dry soil, so check your soil to see where things stand before adding moremoisture.

If your plant does not perk up when watered, stop watering it and allow the soil to dry thoroughly. Petunias also benefit from a dose of balanced fertilizermonthly.

Drooping can also be due to a lack of sun, as they prefer full sun, or a sign of insect or fungalissue.

  • Reply

I was so relieved to come across Alicia's comment regarding withering petunias. She has described exactly what has happened with my petunias this year!! Exactly!! I have not been able to determine the cause of this problem either. Could there have something in the potting soil used at the greenhouse? I would really like to know the cause so as not to duplicate the problem next year. Nearby flowers don't seem to be negatively affected.

  • Reply

I have successfully grown petunias for many years. I put them in pots on my front steps as well as in the flower beds on either side of the steps, all in full sun. Last year however, they failed miserably. I planted around 60 plants from six-packs over a 3-4 week period. Some died within a week of planting, some after a couple weeks, some after several weeks or even two months. All went through the same stages: one day the plant would look vigorous and healthy; but the next day, the leaves would look wilty - the same look as when water is needed, but water was not needed as the ground was adequately moist; the third day the plant would be withered completely. One by one, the petunias went through these stages until I had only one that made it through most of the summer. This summer, after 4 weeks in the ground, the same thing is happening. I am losing plants daily. I can find no evidence of pests nor of gophers (though gophers would not be able to bother the potted plants). I have kept the soil moist but not wet. I thought that perhaps there was something wrong with my soil, but the petunias in pots with potting soil were/are dying just the same way as those in the soil. I'm completely baffled. As I said, I have successfully grown petunias for many years. I will appreciate any insight given. Thank you.

  • Reply

Hello, I had gorgeous “Galaxy Petunias” that were mainly purple in color with speckles of white. This last bloom all the flowers came out fully white with the only purple being in the bottom of the buds (closest to stem). Can anyone tell me why this happened and what I can do to get my flowers back to their prior glory? Thank you in advance.

  • Reply

Color changes in flowering plants is something of a mystery. It could be from limited chlorophyll or another component of photosynthesis. Some sources also suggest that temperature plays arole.

If anyone has other explanations we’d love to hearthem!

  • Reply

I've just moved from 6b planting zone to 9a. I've had 6 large planter pots across my back deck in full sun with petunias at both of my homes. In the 6b zone I would plant them from 4-6 inch pots or flats on June 15th (never before) after, hopefully, the last snow. They would bloom beautifully all summer long with minimal care needed; a little dead-heading, a couple miracle-grow shots. The pots would fill abundantly with lovely multi-colored flowers hanging all the way to the ground by mid July. Stunning! Bloom would usually be done by mid to end of September with the first cold bite. My new home this year in 9a. It's been a continual fight of aphids all summer long every 2-3 weeks with soapy water, store-bought remedies...I've tried everything. After each treatment, the plants lost their blooms and would look bare for a week or two, then abundant blooms would appear again (with aphids). It was cyclical. It's Nov 20th in 9a zone. We've had several frosts and the flowers and leaves still look good. I've read petunias may be perennial in this zone. We'll see. If they do, I may keep them, otherwise, any ideas on another full sun flower that doesn't have the pest problem?

  • Reply

I found Dr. Doom took care of the aphids. Works great on the ant problem as well. Hope this helps.

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