How Should A Dress Shoe Fit? (2024)

How Should A Dress Shoe Fit? (1)

Healthy Feet

There are a lot of misconceptions about how dress shoes should fit. The most common misconceptions suggest that dress shoes should be uncomfortable. Here at Samuel Hubbard, we have a different vision for dress shoes. Follow these guidelines to find a great fitting pair of dress shoes.

Finding Your Shoe Size

Different brands, cuts and styles of shoes will yield very different fits. First, you need to find the right size (length and width) and then you can compare brands and models to find the pair that fit you best.

Length

The most common shoe size measurement is the length, which determines your shoe size. As a shoe gets longer, it will also get marginally wider. As previously noted, shoe sizing varies by brand, so check the manufacturer’s sizing recommendations - some brands will suggest sizing up or down for a particular model.

If you are unsure of your shoe size, you can use a Brannock device to get an accurate measurement. If you don’t have access to one, you can download our printable Brannock device and measure your feet at home.

It’s also smart to double check your shoe size from time to time, especially if you’re investing in a high-quality pair of shoes. Your feet will grow and change as you age, and you may find that you need a half size larger than you thought.

Your Feet Are Different Sizes

When measuring your shoe size, or trying on shoes, remember that one of your feet is probably bigger than the other. This is perfectly normal - it’s estimated that more than 50% of the population have one foot that is bigger than the other.

The difference is usually pretty small and if one foot is a half size, full size or even 1.5 sizes bigger, then you can wear the same pair of shoes - but size them based on the larger foot. It’s better to have one shoe that is a big looser than one that is extra tight.

Width

Shoe width is equally as important as length. While most people are fine with a normal width (men’s D or women’s B), some will need a wide width. Wide width shoes will have the same length as their medium counterparts, but extra room in the toe box and forefoot.

If your shoes frequently feel tight, or you keep the laces loose, consider trying a pair of wide shoes. Even if you’ve never worn them before, feet usually get wider as we age, and you may find that a wide width shoe fits better.

Learn more about wide width shoe sizing.

Trying On Shoes

Trying on a pair of shoes is always the best bet to ensure that they fit correctly, and if you can’t try them on before buying them, make sure you’re buying from a retailer that offers free returns and exchanges. Samuel Hubbard has always had a generous returns policy because we want to make sure our customers are able to find a comfortable fit.

When you’re trying on a pair of shoes, take these factors into consideration.

Try On Dress Shoes In The Afternoon

Your feet swell throughout the day, which means they’ll be larger in the afternoon than they were in the morning. This is the best time to try on dress shoes - when your feet are at their largest. You don’t want to buy a pair of nice dress shoes and then find out they’re too tight after a long day of wearing them.

Wear The Right Socks

When you’re trying on dress shoes, wear the same pair of socks that you would normally have on with the dress shoes. Dress socks are usually thinner than regular socks, which can affect the shoe’s fit. Or, if you plan on wearing thickers socks with your dress shoes, wear those when you try the shoes on.

How A Dress Shoe Should Fit

Here are some common tests to make sure your dress shoes fit properly.

Toe Fit

A shoe’s toe fit can be used to check both the length and the width.

To test the length, put both shoes on, tie them and stand up. With your heel pushed against the back of the shoe, your toes should not touch the front of the shoe, and there should be about a half inch of extra space. The difference between a full shoe size is usually ⅓ inch, so if the fit is close, it’s easy to go up or down a half size to get a better fit.

To test for width, check the fit on your pinkie toe. It should have a reasonable amount of space - if it feels crammed in there, but the overall length is good, you might need a wide width shoe.

Forefoot Fit

Checking forefoot fit assumes that the overall length is correct, and is a strong indicator that you may need a wider or narrower width.

To check forefoot fit, sit down, put both shoes on, and tie them as you normally would. Now pick your feet up off the ground and shake them side to side. The shoes should move with your feet - if there’s excessive movement within the shoe, then the shoes are too loose. Look at the laces - if there’s room to tie them tighter, try that and repeat the shake test. You may need to do this a few times.

If you tie the shoes as tight as you can and there’s still movement, the shoes are probably too wide and you should try a narrow width, or a different model/brand. You’ll know the shoes are tied as tight as they can be when the left and right facing (the leather where the lace holes are) and pulled tight against each other.

If the shoes pass the shake test, stand up and walk around. The shoes should feel comfortable without feeling tight. If they feel tight, loosen the laces and try again. If the laces are as loose as they can be, and the shoes are still too tight, try a wide width.

Heel Fit

Heel slippage is a common concern with dress shoes. Most dress shoes use a stiffer outsole to prevent leather creasing and preserve the shoe’s look. The stiffer sole means less flexibility which causes the heels of your feet to pull out of the shoe a bit with each footstep. Some heel slippage is normal, but an excessive amount is a sign of a bad fit.

You can feel for heel slippage by trying on the shoes and walking around. You can also use the finger test - while wearing the shoes, try sliding your index finger between the heel of your foot and the heel of the shoe. You should have some difficulty - if your finger slides in easily, the shoes are too big and there will be too much slippage. If your finger is impossible to fit, the shoes are too tight and will cause chafing or blisters.

Do Dress Shoes Stretch?

Leather dress shoes will stretch a little. Leather has a break in period where it will conform to your feet. In terms of sizing, leather stretching shouldn’t have much of an impact. A brand new pair of shoes shouldn’t be too tight or too loose. If you’re perfectly in between a pair that are a little too tight and a little too loose, the tighter pair may stretch out just enough to be perfect.

To preserve the shoes’ look and durability, stretching should occur naturally. Wear the shoes around the house to help break them in - thicker socks can help with the break-in process. Excessive stretching with tools or heat is never a good idea. It’s an immediate sign that the shoes don’t fit well, and it’s likely to damage or wear out the leather prematurely.

Shop Dress Shoes From Samuel Hubbard

Samuel Hubbard’s men’s leather dress shoes are handcrafted in Portugal, using the finest materials available. Shop our selection of super comfortable suede and leather dress shoes.

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How Should A Dress Shoe Fit? (2024)

FAQs

How much room should dress shoes have in toe? ›

Toe Fit. A shoe's toe fit can be used to check both the length and the width. To test the length, put both shoes on, tie them and stand up. With your heel pushed against the back of the shoe, your toes should not touch the front of the shoe, and there should be about a half inch of extra space.

Are dress shoes supposed to run big? ›

That's okay for sneakers, which are meant to have some give in them, but with dress shoes, as with suits, fit is king. Leather dress shoes are meant to be closely fitted to your foot and eventually mold themselves to it.

Should you be able to wiggle your toes in dress shoes? ›

You should be able to slide your finger between them with little force. If your finger cannot fit, the shoes are too tight. If your finger has too much room, the shoes are too large. Your toes need wiggle room so that you don't get blisters, calluses or damaged toenails.

Should my toes touch the end of my shoes? ›

As a rule of thumb (or toe), you should have about 3/8″ to 1/2″ of room from the tip of your longest toe to the end of the shoe. Your big toe is not automatically your longest toe. Pick the shoes that match your foot shape.

Is it OK to wear shoes slightly bigger? ›

The only time that you could wear a shoe in a bigger size is when purchasing a sneaker but you should only go up about half a size. The reason for this is that our feet tend to swell because fluid accumulates due to gravity with prolonged standing and weight baring activities.

Is it OK to wear shoes slightly too big? ›

Other painful effects of wearing shoes that are too big include: Corns and calluses: caused by excessive pressure on the toes. Metatarsalgia: caused by too much pressure on the balls of your feet. Disrupted natural stride: resulting in Achilles tendonitis, arch pain, and pain in the calf muscles.

Do dress shoes loosen up over time? ›

Shoes will typically stretch all on their own as you wear them. Leather shoes, whether it be men's dress shoes or women's heels, will fit over time. But if they are too tight and uncomfortable to wear in, try some of these easy hacks to stretch your shoes up to half a size or so to accommodate your feet.

Why do dress shoes hurt my feet? ›

And while the arch of your foot is amazingly resilient and flexible, dress shoes that flatten, distort, or strain your arch cause small tears and progressive injuries to the fascia to develop over time, resulting in heel pain and eventual plantar fasciitis.

Where are dress shoes supposed to crease? ›

A bit simplifyed one can say that a shoe that fits perfect basically only should crease on top of the vamp, over the widest part of the foot where shoe bends, in lines that run straight over the shoe.

Why are formal shoes so uncomfortable? ›

Formal shoes are mostly made of leather, which is initially stiff and inflexible. This means that many types of leather shoes will not be comfortable right out of the box – the leather needs some time to get accustomed to your feet. Shoe break-in period varies from shoe to shoe.

How much heel slip is normal? ›

When your foot bends to take a step in a new shoe, your heels should slip slightly. 1/8” movement is normal but can feel like much more. Loose slipping in the heels will not cause blisters when broken in gradually, but wearing shoes that are too small and tight will cause friction and then blister.

How do I make dress shoes that are too big fit? ›

Full insoles are a fantastic solution if your shoes are too big across the length of your foot. They come in a variety of materials, styles and sizes to suit your needs: Foam insoles: if you're after general stability and snug-fitting shoes, foam insoles are ideal for making things more comfortable.

How do you know if your shoes are too small? ›

If your toes don't face straight ahead, seem crammed together, or are overlapping each other, it's likely your shoes are too tight. When shoes fit properly, there's space between each toe, and the toes face straight forward, not turned toward either side.

What happens if you wear shoes that are too loose? ›

Shoes that are too loose can lead to poor arch support, shin pain, and arch collapse. Loose-fitting shoes may also cause trips and falls, as your foot can't feel the surface as well as it should.

Is everyone supposed to be able to touch their toes? ›

It's ok if you can't, because an astonishing 53% of the population cannot touch their toes. This is an incredibly high percentage. If we take a look at what needs to happen biomechanically we can further understand why someone wouldn't be able to touch their toes.

How do you walk in dress shoes without creasing? ›

5 Ways on How to Keep Your Shoes from Creasing When Walking
  1. Walk properly. To prevent your shoes from creasing, you have to walk properly. ...
  2. Have a perfect fit. As much as possible, avoid too much space between your feet and shoe upper material. ...
  3. Avoid using shoes often. ...
  4. Try using a shoehorn. ...
  5. Tighten up your shoelaces properly.
Dec 1, 2022

How much space should be at the end of a shoe? ›

Generally speaking, there should be about one finger's width of space between your longest toe and the end of the shoe. Another way to check this is to slip a finger between the heel of your foot and the heel of your shoe. There should be just enough space for your finger to fit nice and snugly.

Should toes curl in shoes? ›

Let me say that again: Your toes should never lie completely flat in climbing shoes. The reason for this is that curling your toes, even just slightly, allows you to hold significantly more weight on small edges.

Is half a size a big difference in shoes? ›

Is a Half Size in Shoes a Big Difference? A half-size represents a 1/8” difference. It may not seem significant but is enough to distinguish between comfort and discomfort. Because there is no standardisation for shoe sizing, a half size difference will also depend on the brand of shoe.

Is it better to size up or down in shoes? ›

As a general rule, always size up. Only size down if it says that the shoes run large. You can always stuff the toe to make a larger shoe fit. A safe choice would be a size up.

Do feet get bigger with age? ›

Do people's feet change as they get older? They don't change in size, necessarily. But feet may get wider, not longer, as we age. They change in their elasticity the same way other body parts do – tissue becomes less tight, causing the increased width and sagging of the arches.

How should slightly large shoes fit? ›

Wear thicker socks (or multiple pairs).

Perhaps the easiest thing you can do to make a loose pair of shoes fit better is to "bulk up" your feet with thicker layers of socks. For example, you might try exchanging a skin-tight pair of dress socks or tights for a padded set of crew socks.

Is it normal for shoes to be tight at first? ›

Typically shoes loosen up naturally as you wear them from place to place, but that entire process could take weeks of tiptoeing around with crunched toes and blooming blisters. But walking in shoes that pinch is something you can totally avoid.

Is it OK for new shoes to be tight? ›

It's normal for new shoes to feel tight around the toes, rub at the heel and pinch a little bit with every step. Because leather is an organic material and it stretches as it adapts to your feet, every new pair of shoes requires a break-in period.

Can you break in shoes that are too small? ›

"Make sure that a shoe you are breaking in is appropriately sized; if it is more than half a size too small then it may not stretch or break in sufficiently to properly fit," she says.

Are dress shoes unhealthy? ›

Women's dress shoes, particularly high heels, often feature a narrow forefoot, which increases the pressure on the balls of your feet. You can never truly take a balanced step in this footwear. Bunions, hammertoes, ingrown toenails and other recurring blisters are often the result.

Why do dress shoes hurt heel? ›

Shoes rub heels and ankles due to the friction created between the lining of shoes and the skin on the achilles and ankle. This friction is created when walking and is exacerbated by factors including sock material and thickness, shape of a shoe's topline, material of shoe lining, and shoe tightness.

Can dress shoes cause ingrown toenails? ›

A common cause of ingrown toenails is wearing shoes that do not fit correctly. This condition can develop as a result of wearing certain types of shoes that do not have adequate room for the toes to move freely in.

Do designer shoes crease? ›

Even with proper storage, you'll likely crease your shoes with normal usage.

Why do shoes hurt when you first wear them? ›

The expansion of your foot is one of the reasons why do new shoes hurt. Moreover, the excessive water in your shoes will cause blisters. Excess water in your shoes will cause blisters because wet skin is softer and more prone to friction.

Which brand has most comfortable formal shoes? ›

Brands like Clarks, Florsheim, Mephisto, and Rockport have been selling comfortable dress shoes for several decades. Many of their products combine formal silhouettes with rubber or foam midsoles – a design that makes walking or standing comfortable. A cushy foam-lined footbed is often part of the package.

How much space should you have in steel toe shoes? ›

Safety Toe shoes need to be fit about a half size larger than normal footwear. Since there is hard cap in shoe there is no stretch in toe box area. You do not want your toes touching the end of the safety shoe. 4.

How much room should you have in the toe box? ›

There should be about half an inch between the end of your longest toe and the front of the shoe. If you have small hands, this is about the size of the tip of your index finger. If you have large hands, it's about the size of the tip of your pinky finger.

How much room should be in the toe of a cleat? ›

Your soccer cleat should fit as close to the end of your foot as possible, without touching your toes. A 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap is ideal.

How much room should be in the toe of a steel toe boot? ›

4. When you walk: Your heel should not come up out of the boot or rub against the back. Your toes should have about an inch of room in front of them at all times.

How much room is too much in a shoe? ›

Generally speaking, there should be about one finger's width of space between your longest toe and the end of the shoe. Another way to check this is to slip a finger between the heel of your foot and the heel of your shoe. There should be just enough space for your finger to fit nice and snugly.

Is an inch of shoe space too much? ›

There should be about a 1/2 inch between the end of your longest toe and the end of the front of the shoe. Generally, this is about the size of the tip of your index finger (small hands) or pinky finger (large hands).

Are steel toe shoes supposed to be tight? ›

Steel toe boots and shoes must fit snugly around the top and sides of your foot but your toes must move in the toe box without touching the boot and with no pressure. If you feel any pressure on the toes, then work boots are too small.

Is it OK to wear one size bigger shoes? ›

As we all know, if you wear a shoe that is too tight it will hurt your feet and lead to foot ailments, such as blisters, bunions and calluses. But wearing a shoe that is too big will cause us to walk in an unnatural and dysfunctional way. This can lead to serious foot problems.

Can a toe box be too wide? ›

Too much toe room is only a problem if you have too much movement in the shoe due to the size. That can cause blisters. If you have to have a bigger toe box, then a larger shoe could be a good solution along with something like a heel lock lace to help prevent excess movement of your foot in the shoe.

How much space should be between toe and end of boot? ›

You should be able to wiggle your toes inside the toe box (the front of the shoe). To see if you have enough room, slide your foot forward so your toes are just touching the end of the unlaced boot. In this position, you should have a finger's width (about ½") between the base of your heel and the boot.

Where should cleat position be? ›

“The standard cleat position should ideally be in the centre of the ball of the foot,” says Allen. “And in most cases, the ball of the foot runs diagonally between the first and fifth metatarsal (big and small toes), so not horizontally.”

How much space should there be between the longest toe and the end of the shoe according to the running shoe fit tips? ›

For proper length, allow for at least 1/2 to 1 inch (a thumb's width) between your longest toe and the shoe's end. To get a feel for the proper width, you should be able to pinch some material at the sides or top of the shoe. Running shoe size is typically a half size larger than your typical shoe size.

Why do my feet hurt when I wear steel toe boots? ›

Often, the pain associated with steel toe boots is caused because the boots are too narrow or too loose for the wearer.

How much room should you have after your big toe? ›

Stand up and make sure there is 3/8" or 1/2" (about the width of your finger) between your longest toe (usually the second toe) and the end of the shoe. Always stand and walk around in the shoes to see if they are comfortable, fit well, and don't chafe or rub anywhere.

How much room should be in the toe of a barefoot shoe? ›

With a minimum of 12 mm of space, you give it the space it needs.

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