Euphorbia Platyclada ‘Dead Plant’ (2024)

FAQs

How do you revive Euphorbia? ›

Cut whole plant back to the ground in autumn

Herbaceous perennial types of euphorbia need deadheading after flowering. Then cut back the plant to the ground before the first frosts – it will reappear next year.

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The Euphorbia Platyclada, unlike most succulents, is not drought resistant. It may require weekly watering during the summer. These plants need plenty of water during their active growing season from spring to early autumn. When watering, always allow the soil in their pots to fully dry out before watering again.

To thrive they need good light and only the very occasional watering, these plants like to be kept dry, treat it like a cactus and you won't go far wrong. We are selling nice large plants and obviously very limited stock. Euphorbia platyclada make a great houseplant gift for the houseplant enthusiast.

Euphorbia does not need excessive watering. Simply give them water when the soil is dry! If your plant is in a pot, make sure the pot has drainage.

Euphorbia trigona 'Rubra,' also named Euphorbia trigona 'Royal Red,' is a variety that features both the green and magenta-purple hues. Beautiful, vibrant color on both varieties. Leaves drop during the dormant season and regrow at the start of the growing season.

Common Issues with Euphorbia Plants. Curled leaves and dried brown edges are the result of too little water and over-exposure to the sun. Although this species can naturally do well in sun-filled locations, those that haven't acclimatised to the harsh rays will show signs of sun-scorch and environmental shock.

A death bloom only happens once in the lifetime of the succulent – often when it's at the right maturity to reproduce. Usually, this occurs after 2-3 years and even 80 years+ for certain Agave varieties.

Your plant is showing signs of a vascular problem in that it cannot provide enough water pressure to keep some of the stems upright. Wilting like this can be a sign of underwatering but it can also be a sign of overwatering or disease when the stems are clogged with fungi.

Once the top growth begins to fade, it's a good idea to cut most euphorbias back to the ground to promote fresh basal growth, because they can get leggy and this shortens their lifespan. Care has to be taken when cutting them down however, because the milky white sap is a serious irritant.

Some varieties die to the ground every winter to come back from the roots and need to have all old growth removed at the base. Most euphorbia species bloom only at the tips of stems that grew the year before.

Do you cut euphorbia back after flowering? ›

Herbaceous (or deciduous) perennial euphorbias die down over winter but come back the following spring. They can be deadheaded to prolong flowering, and once the flowers are finished cut them back before the first frosts.

Euphorbia heterophylla is a common and very competitive weed of upland rice in the savanna zones of Africa. It can rapidly form a closed canopy, and it has a life cycle of only about 60 days from germination to seed setting contributing to a rapid build-up of the population.

One of the common, if not the most common issue Euphorbia Trigona owners will come across are the leaves yellowing up and falling off. Yellowing and leaf drop is a commonly reported problem.

SIDE EFFECTS FROM EUPHORBIA SAP

These plants secrete a milky sap that can be poisonous to humans and animals. The sap is usually found on the leaves of the succulent. If someone gets it on any exposed skin, it can cause a rash. If Euphorbia sap gets into the eyes, it can result in redness and pain.

Euphorbias in general are sun lovers, though some will tolerate partial shade. Those with deep-purple or reddish foliage will have more-intense coloring if planted in full sun.

Yes, you can prune the Euphorbia, if it is done right it will not kill the plant, but it will cause them to scar and then branch over the next few years. You should prune now during warm weather so it has a chance to heal before your wet and cold winter. It should be easy to cut with a pruning saw or a serrated knife.

Succulent Dormancy - Indoors

Echeveria, Euphorbia, and Agave will usually all go dormant during the winter months. You will notice a slow down in growth. These do not have to be fertilized, and watering should be every 2 weeks or when the soil is bone dry.

Water: Water your euphorbia every two weeks in the summer time, but triple check that the soil is completely dry between each watering. When watering make sure the water is drainage through its growers nursery pot. The biggest killer of this beauty, is over watering resulting in root rot.

Treating Root and Stem Rot

Remove the affected plants from the soil, and gently wash the roots under running, clean water. Wash away as much soil as possible, and don't worry about any affected roots that fall off in the process. Try and be as gentle with the plant as possible while you're treating them, though.

Can you cut off a death bloom? ›

While there is no way to stop a flowering sempervivum “hen” from dying, if you cut the bloom stem from a Kalanchoe flapjacks plant, you can often keep the plant alive. While we say a monocarp dies after blooming, it is in truth the seed production that triggers the death of the plant – to the extent that it does die.

Death blooms come from the very very center (apex) of succulents like sempervivum, agave and some kalanchoe. If you see a bloom stalk (inflorescence) coming from somewhere else, like in between layers on an echeveria, it is a normal bloom and will not die after blooming.

They can go up to 1-3 months of no watering. Indoor succulents will have less exposure to the elements outdoors - wind and sunlight outdoors tend to dry out the soil faster than it does indoors. In cooler climates, generally fall and winter, the soil stays moist for longer periods of time.

Can your wilted plant be saved? It depends on why your plant is wilting. Different causes require different responses. If you've under watered your plant or have extremely low humidity, you can add water more and/or raise the humidity level around the plant.

Leave the plant for a few hours or up to a full day to soak up the water. It will either drink all the water from the bottom-up, or if there's still water remaining, remove it and let it drain out before returning to its decorative planter. Within 2 to 24 hours, come back and see your plant lush and full of life!

Plants that are wilted in the afternoon will often perk back up at night and look perfectly happy by morning. If the plants' leaves do not appear stressed in the morning, they can probably go another day or two before needing water.

At first, this may seem like a blessing, because the leaves are a good, glaucous blue. However, it is far too much of a good thing, has fleshy, deep roots that damage other more wanted plants when you pull them up, and is probably the least appropriate option when it comes to euphorbias.

Dig a wide circle at least 12 to 18 inches out from the trunk so the circle of soil retains as many of the roots as possible. Pull back on the shovel handle as you dig to pry the roots from the soil. Lift the root ball out of the hole and shake off any excess soil.

Euphorbia Diamond Frost® spills over the edge of a container. As tender perennials, they can be kept over the winter by bringing plants inside before the first frost and maintaining them in a sunny spot. If kept in good condition, they could be used as an accent plant to poinsettias during the holidays.

Most euphorbias bloom in the spring or summer and go dormant in the winter.

Why is my Euphorbia turning yellow? ›

Euphorbia Flanaganii can turn yellow for a variety of reasons. Too much water, too little water, winter, exposure to full sun/extreme heat and heavy succulent potting mix can all cause yellowing of the leaves or even the whole branches.

Prune them as soon as they've finished flowering – about mid spring – right back into the plant. This will help to maintain its shape and prevent it from running-away and becoming scraggly.

There are many varieties and cultivars of euphorbia so you are bound to find one to bloom in any season. While some euphorbias sport showy white bracts, others are green and yellow. Some bloom nonstop throughout the growing season, no deadheading required.

The flowers are always unisexual. They are much reduced and may be monoecious or dioecious. In Euphorbia sp., each male flower is represented by a single stalked stamen. The flowers are incomplete, regular, actinomorphic and hypogynous.

Fill around with more soil, and you're done. Don't water for 2 weeks to let the roots heal, and the plant should begin to thrive again.

Your euphorbia needs all the sun it can get to have the energy to flower. The more bright, direct sunlight it gets, the longer the flowering period will be. Without enough light, you will not get flowers. Your plant also needs to be healthy to flower.

Euphorbias generally require a sunny position and fertile, well-drained soil. However, some varieties are shade tolerant and will thrive beneath trees and shrubs, as ground cover.

Euphorbia tirucalli and certain other Euphorbia species contain a white latex that is among the most irritating plant substances described. Exposure to the sap can cause severe consequences in humans, most significantly following ocular contact, leading to blindness if left untreated.

Many succulents in the euphorbia genus, such as the pencil cactus and crown of thorns, are poisonous to both cats and dogs. Symptoms of poisoning from ingesting this succulent range from gastrointestinal upset to skin and eye irritation.

India is known worldwide for its Ayurvedic treatment. Euphorbia hirta is often used traditionally for female disorders, respiratory ailments (cough, coryza, bronchitis, and asthma), worm infestations in children, dysentery, jaundice, pimples, gonorrhea, digestive problems, and tumors.

Can Euphorbia grow in pots? ›

In containers

Most euphorbia prefer growing in the ground, but some such as E. myrsinites, can do well in containers. This is mainly because they like free draining soil, and it's very easy to mix up a potting compost that provides these conditions exactly.

Euphorbia are plants that want warmth; south- or west-facing windows are the best place for them inside (four or more hours of direct sun shining on the plant), though they can also be grown in very bright indirect light.

Euphorbia is a large genus of smooth and spiny shrubs and cactus-like succulents from 4” to 20 feet in the spurge family (Euphorbiaceae).

Euphorbia plant care is simple. Provide them light, moderate moisture, and watch for annoying pests like whitefly. Provide water under the plant's leaves to prevent powdery mildew. You will not need to fertilize Spurge often.

Pruning biennial euphorbias

This will keep them vigorous and prolong their life, although all euphorbias tend to only live for four to five years on average. It's important to keep them compact to avoid leggy growth.

If you get the sap on your hands, it can cause painful inflammation. Alys Fowler, horticulturist, says: “Euphorbia sap causes skin to become photosensitive: so, if you handle it with bare skin in the sun, it can cause blisters.” If you get sap on your skin, you should wash the area thoroughly with soap and water.

Euphorbia Flanaganii can turn yellow for a variety of reasons. Too much water, too little water, winter, exposure to full sun/extreme heat and heavy succulent potting mix can all cause yellowing of the leaves or even the whole branches.

Euphorbias in general are sun lovers, though some will tolerate partial shade. Those with deep-purple or reddish foliage will have more-intense coloring if planted in full sun.

Euphorbia are plants that want warmth; south- or west-facing windows are the best place for them inside (four or more hours of direct sun shining on the plant), though they can also be grown in very bright indirect light.

Euphorbia heterophylla is a common and very competitive weed of upland rice in the savanna zones of Africa. It can rapidly form a closed canopy, and it has a life cycle of only about 60 days from germination to seed setting contributing to a rapid build-up of the population.