Learn about carnation flower in perfumery, discover its history and meaning.
What does a carnation flower represent?
Carnations have different meanings in history depending on a country.
In France, it is unthinkable to offer carnations to the mistress of the house, why? It is a superstition that comes from the world of theater, the theater directors sent carnations, cheap flowers, to the artists. This meant that the artist was fired. On the other hand, sending roses to the artists' dressing room meant that their contracts would be maintained.
Carnation was often worn as a buttonhole. Henri IV wore it white, a symbol of traditionalism and conservatism. Red carnation was a revolutionary sign. As for green carnation worn by Oscar Wide, it was a subtle way to announce his hom*osexuality.
Carnation flowers bloom a lot in cemeteries in France.
In Japan they have a very positive meaning like love and distinction. They are often offered for Mother's Day. Carnations are also popular in Japanese art: ikebana, poems, films, books, kimonos, dishes, origami papers, fans, etc.
In China, carnations symbolize social success and happiness.
Olfactive description of carnation in perfumery
Botanical variety: Asteraceae and Caryophyllus
Carnation flower is also called Dianthus, divine flower for the Greeks
Carnations have a subtle balmy and spicy fragrance, remissent of cloves.
Carnation can give its scent naturally, processed in Grasse. However, its scent is very disappointing as it is far from that of the fresh flower. Moreover, as its yield is very low, it is rarely used.
The note of carnation has experienced a revival in recent years, especially in confidential perfumery.
It is a flower that is reproduced by a composition called carnation accord or carnation reconstruction.
Carnation can be considered as a silent flower like the violet, lily of the valley, lilac or freesia (cf. Flowers).
It takes up a lot of space in a composition (cf. The olfactory pyramid).
A carnation base marketed by Givaudan called Methyl Dianthilis and is widely used in perfumery.
A carnation accord or reconstitution is basically composed of rose, jasmine, methylionone, benzyl salicylate (cf. Solar notes) and iso-eugenol from clove, heliotropin, ylang-ylang and vanillin.
The eugenol and methyl eugenol notes are highly regulated and limited by current perfumery laws (IFRA).
In summary, the scent of carnation is the scent of a spicy rose.
Other spicy flowers in the floral family
Other spicy flowers are the wallflower and the immortelle.
Carnation should not be confused with marigold, also called tagetes.
Carnation-based perfumes
L'Origan by François Coty (1905) was the first carnation-based perfume. It had this spicy carnation floral base (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg) that blended with oriental or amber notes and floral notes.
Here is a list of the perfumes of his prolific descendants:
- L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci
- Opium by YSL
- Youth Dew by Estée Lauder
- Cinnabar by Estée Lauder
- Bellodgia by Caron
- En Avion by Caron
- Tabu by Dana
- Infusion d’Oeillet by Prada
- Après L’Ondée by Guerlain
- L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain
- Lui by Guerlain
- L’Heure Convoitée by Cartier
- Vitriol d’œillet by Serge Lutens
- Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel
- Fidji by Guy Laroche
- Florabotanica by Balenciaga
- Œillet Louis XV by Oriza L Legrand
- Œillet Sauvage by l’Artisan Parfumeur
- Œillet de Bengale by Aèdes de Vénustas
- Shanghai Lily by Tom Ford
- Florentina by Sylvaine Delacourte Paris
- Vangelis by Sylvaine Delacourte Paris
Sylvaine Delacourte perfumes
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