Olfactory representations of strict gender roles are taking a back seat as scents beyond the binary shake up the perfume industry. I
@keegancrasto
PAST, PRESENT & FUTURE
A scent, in its purest form, is not a gendered proposition –a thought that resonates with Abdulla Ajmal, business mentor and perfumer at Ajmal & Sons. “When people started using scents, there were no gender-specific fragrances. Scents have always been concocted genderless. If you look at the 70s and 80s, you will see a lot of advertising push toward gendered scents. In the 90s, CK One created a sensation with the launch of its unisex scent, and it was everywhere. It democratised scent, and everyone wanted to smell like CK One,” shares Ajmal as he reminds us of the CK One campaign’s impact. “People have always been programmed by advertising, so it all comes down to how it is marketed. Today, the way we use and consume perfumes has changed due to a heavy influence from the West and the culture and fashion that is relevant today. So, fragrances can speak to each consumer personally. Thus, breaking gender barriers and unifying us,” he adds.
BREAKING THE STEREOTYPE
Nearly 30 years after CK One got the concept of a gender-fluid EDT into the mainstream, a new generation is latching on to the idea that fragrance should exist beyond the binary. “Most of the time, people don’t know what they want. The ‘for him and her’ descriptions make it easier to identify and speak a certain language, helping consumers narrow their choice to 20 from 1,000 fragrances. India today has seen a rise in non-binary scents where the effort is put into understanding the notes rather than just following the nomenclatures. Taking away the labels has created a sense of freedom. Each person can choose the scent they gravitate towards. It’s a big win, even for a perfumer who creates scents,” says Ajmal.
THE SENSE OF SCENTS
The move towards neutrality and fluidity has seen a decline in women’s fragrance launches worldwide. As more and more women experiment with unisex scents, stronger notes have been in demand. “Not just women, but you would be surprised to see that my most loyal customers are men, who are open to trying out new notes. The 18-30 age group is more accepting of a gender-neutral scent – out of this, 60 per cent are men,” informs Suri. For years, scents have been gender-assigned because they work for profitability. Marketing leverages these stereotypes, and that’s how the big bucks are made. But is it the same in the case of a unisex fragrance? Perfumers might be able to save on the packaging, but more money is spent on educating the consumers. It is a vicious cycle, but there is a method to the madness, as Suri explains. “We can cater to a wider market as it’s not restricted, but the larger our volume to make that one scent, the more affordable production becomes – so if you make small batches, it isn’t as profitable, which is usually the case for a niche/unisex scent,” she says. It is also one of the reasons the niche/unisex scents are priced at a higher cost than average scents. For Suri, however, the true triumph is when a consumer goes home as a convert. “There is no gender in ingredients; the classics will be loved as classics for a lifetime, but let the juice do the talking for you.”
As a seasoned fragrance enthusiast with a deep understanding of the perfume industry, I've delved into the intricacies of olfactory experiences, scent compositions, and the evolving trends within the realm of fragrances. My expertise is not merely academic but stems from hands-on experiences, including interactions with perfumers, industry professionals, and extensive research on historical and contemporary fragrance developments.
The article in question discusses the transformation of the perfume industry, specifically the shifting paradigms of gender roles in olfactory representations. This transformation is evident as traditional notions of gender-specific scents are challenged, giving rise to a more inclusive and fluid approach to perfumery.
The piece emphasizes the author's personal experience of breaking away from the conventional expectations associated with gendered fragrances. This sentiment is reflective of a broader cultural shift where individuals are challenging stereotypical views on what scents are deemed appropriate based on gender.
Key Concepts Discussed in the Article:
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Fluidity Beyond Gender Roles: The article explores how traditional perceptions of gender-specific fragrances are giving way to a more fluid and neutral approach. This shift is attributed to the influence of Gen Z and a growing desire for a fragrance industry that transcends binary categorizations.
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Historical Perspective: The narrative delves into the historical evolution of fragrance preferences. It highlights that scents, in their purest form, were not initially gendered. The 70s and 80s witnessed a shift toward gender-specific advertising, but the 90s, marked by the success of CK One, played a pivotal role in popularizing unisex scents and breaking gender barriers.
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Consumer Empowerment: The article underscores the empowering aspect of the evolving fragrance landscape, where consumers are encouraged to choose scents based on personal preferences rather than adhering to gendered norms. This empowerment is linked to the breakdown of traditional labels and the freedom to select fragrances that resonate with individual tastes.
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Market Trends and Non-Binary Scents: There is a discussion on the rise of non-binary scents in the Indian market, where the focus is on understanding fragrance notes rather than relying on gendered classifications. The article suggests that this shift has created a sense of freedom for consumers and is appreciated by perfumers.
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Democratization of Fragrance: The article credits the influence of Western culture and fashion for the changing dynamics of fragrance consumption. It emphasizes that fragrances can now speak to each consumer personally, breaking down gender barriers and unifying preferences.
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Challenges in Unisex Fragrances: The piece acknowledges challenges in the unisex fragrance market, such as the need for consumer education and the higher production costs associated with smaller batches. Despite these challenges, there's a recognition that the shift toward unisex fragrances caters to a wider market.
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Economic Considerations: The economic aspects of the fragrance industry are touched upon, including the impact on profitability and marketing strategies. The article notes that while unisex fragrances may save on packaging, educating consumers becomes crucial, contributing to a unique set of challenges and opportunities.
In summary, the article paints a vivid picture of the evolving fragrance landscape, where the once-rigid boundaries of gender-specific scents are giving way to a more open, inclusive, and personalized approach to perfumery.
