7 Different Types of Pleats That Every Smart Dresser Should Know (2024)

Updated on December 11, 2023

Accordion Pleat

Resembling—you guessed it—the bellows of an accordion, these narrow, often heat-set pleats create a raised zigzag pattern and widen slightly toward the bottom, which is why they're also referred to as sunburst pleats.

If you have an oval figure type—a slightly fuller middle with less definition between your bust, waist, and hips—a floaty pleated dress with thin accordion pleats is a great option. Belting it just below your bust defines your waistline while also drawing attention away from your midsection.

Bias Pleat

Bias pleats are made of fabric cut on the diagonal. They're usually stitched down only at the top and left unpressed so the folds look soft and drapey, similar to what you would see on a Grecian-inspired dress.

A bias-cut skirt is very flattering on an hourglass figure, as it hugs a small waist and skims over the hips. Since it's not tight-fitting, it's great for maintaining natural body balance.

Box Pleat

A box pleat is fabric folded to create a wide, flat area at the top. They can appear as a single pleat—for instance, at the back of a shirt yoke—or as a series of pleats like a cheerleader's skirt.

Box pleats result in a flare-shape skirt with fabric seeming to increase from the waist to the hem. This shape creates a distraction for an oval-shaped body because they're cute and chic yet cover up a big belly.

If going with this style, stay with a short length. Otherwise, the weight of the pleats cancels the flare effect, resulting in a straight-falling skirt.

Crystal Pleat

Crystal pleats are very fine, sharply pressed pleats that lie flat and overlap each other the way vertical blinds do. You'll often find them spiffing up tuxedo shirts.

Godet Pleat

Godet pleats are hollow and tubular, creating a fluted effect. Designers sometimes use them to make a mermaid-style gown flare out toward the bottom hem. Amermaid-style dressor skirt—fitted at the top and flared out at the bottom—is a good choice for an hourglass figure because it accentuates curves.

Inverted Pleat

An inverted pleat features two folds brought to a center point and pressed. An A-line skirt frequently has a single inverted pleat in the front that forms an upside-down V. A kick pleat at the back of a pencil skirt is a mini version.

Speaking of a pencil skirt, that's a style that's especially flattering for anyone with an hourglass figure. Pencil skirts draw focus on the hips and waist, helping to retain balance for a curvy figure. An A-line pleated skirt is perfect for a pear shape because it emphasizes the waist and doesn't cling to the hips.

Knife Pleat

The most common pleat style, pressed knife pleats are generally about 1 inch apart, all facing the same direction. They're usually found in multiples, as in kilts.

When selecting a knife-pleated skirt, height matters. Generally, taller individuals benefit from a skirt that falls just below the knee, while shorter individuals are likely to find one that falls above the knee more flattering.

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